Sunday 6th Dec
Hola - Hello
We parted Changi as expected on Saturday evening after a heavy monsoonal downpour which reminded us to close the windows before leaving. We were looking forward to 3 weeks of history, culture, great food and wine and an abundance of birds to find because of Spain's location (it is a natural route between the European Continent and Africa) and the varied landscapes we will be passing through. Over 456 different species of birds are quoted but they are not all resident.
We flew Qatar and the service was good with a huge array of films to watch. I saw 'Ricky and the Flash' then 'The Gift' and after a sleep 'The Notebook'. I enjoyed the first, screamed out loud in the second one and cried in the third. Arrived in Doha a wreck.
There were masses of people in transit queues but they moved through pretty efficiently, then we did a quick lap of the amazingly lavish duty free outlets. (Do we really need Armarni Junior and Armarni Baby?) Our wait was not too long and it was a good chance just to stretch our legs. Enjoyed some of the enormous Tom Otterness bronze sculptures, and so did the kids. The double headstand is 4 storeys high.
In contrast, Madrid airport was deserted early in the morning and we found it a good time to purchase SIM cards, a day trip to Toledo for tomorrow, 3-day passes for the subway here and our onward journey for Granada. All done, we caught the metro to Sol and quickly got lost on the crowded streets. We have unknowingly arrived on Constitution Day which marks the anniversary of the referendum to approve the Spanish Constitution and so tomorrow is a public holiday in Spain. Many families are out enjoying the clear skies though dressed in coats against the chill. After several wrong turns in the tightly packed streets around Madrid's Plaza Mayor, the grand square of central Madrid, we found Hostel Macarena, just tucked behind one corner. Great location. It was still too early to check in, so after dropping our bags we wandered back to the lovely open space to enjoy its impressive architecture dressed in ochre coloured walls and uniformly split by frescoes and wrought-iron balconies. There were many street stalls encircling it, selling all manner of collectibles like coins, stamps and beer bottle tops. A Christmas market filled the centre and many street performers were entertaining the crowds both here and through the arches leading to laneways out into the labyrinth of pedestrian lanes and streets nearby.
We found our way around a roughly triangular circuit which passed by the Opera House and Palace, stopping in for coffees and a light lunch along the way. Eric has already been salivating at the sight of all that jamon.
The crowds were all enjoying the many buskers in the streets, as were we, mind the dog shit on the roads though.
Dropping in for a beer and a wine at a street-side table of Los Austrias Taverna, we decided to return for dinner, the service was so good and they were patient with our lack of Spanish. First we need a few hours afternoon kip. See, already getting into this Spanish culture. No not really, just missed some sleep on the trip over. Los Austrias we discovered means Old Town Centre. We lingered afterwards in Plaza Mayor to enjoy the lights and festive atmosphere.
Monday 7th
Dos cafe con leche - two coffees with milk
Holy Toledo! We just spent the day there after walking to Atocha Stn in the morning. It truly is Holy because we have been on a tourist ticket that gave us entrance to the Cathedral, the church, the synagogue and then the monastery. Must have something good coming our way after visits to all those places of worship. The train trip was fast and smooth but I was disappointed to see how dry and desolate the countryside was considering this is winter. We passed through vast sweeping plains destitute of trees and with no sign of humans or animals. Unlike in Australia, those who tend these fields travel significant distances from villages tucked into the lower reaches of hillsides. The only birds we saw were raptors on the wing or perched on high branches of trees lining the few rivers we crossed. Huge storms have been buffeting the Atlantic coast recently, but the last eight months have been brutally dry inland, ruining harvests and putting farmers out of business with the worst drought in 150 years.
In our day trip package we had a bus drive that took us to a fabulous lookout across the Rio Tajo for a panoramic view of the old town sitting high above.
From there we took an elevator up to the walls and entered the labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets and plazas. Though one of the smaller of Spain's provincial capitals, Toledo looms large in the nation's history and hearts as a religious centre, stronghold of the Spanish church, and once-flourishing symbol of a multicultural medieval society. Walking around the old town, set high above the Río Tajo, we discoverd churches, museums, synagogues or mosques set into every block of the network of narrow streets which all seemed to open into sunny plazas. We found the whole place charming and enjoyed lunch at Rincon (same name as we used to enjoy at Graus in 2011). Then we joined the throng of people enjoying the sights and specialty shops.
Our ticket included entry to the 13th-century, high-gothic design cathedral which is one of Spain's most famous churches and its religious art is said to be some of the best in the country.
Next was the Iglesia de Santo Tomé, where one of El Greco's masterpieces is kept.
Then we found our way to the 12th century Sinagoga de Santa María La Blanca. It is unique in that it was constructed under the Christian Kingdom of Castile by Islamic architects for Jewish use and so, is considered a symbol of the cooperation that existed among the three cultures that populated the Iberian Peninsula during the Middle Ages.
Finally, we explored the peaceful 15th-century Franciscan Monasterio San Juan de los Reyes which was provocatively founded in the heart of the Jewish quarter by the Catholic monarchs of the day. Isabella and Ferdinand had planned to be buried there but eventually ended up in their prize conquest, Granada. It has a most beautiful two-level cloister, incorporating Mudéjar design, with arches, pinnacles and gargoyles which all reminded us of the Palace we have visited in Seville. It surrounds a peaceful, lush garden with orange trees and roses.
As I said, Holy Toledo. Enough of churches, we enjoyed a drink and some time people-watching and browsing the goods for sale. Then we walked back down, past the main gate of the fortified walls, to the station (which was very impressive in itself) for the return trip to Madrid. Once again the streets were wall to wall with people out enjoying the lights and street performers. Perhaps because of the temperate climate and the long hours of sunshine, the Spanish tend to get up later in the morning and stay out later at night than their neighbours. Mostly it is just their culture to be out and seen. After an early dinner, by their standards, we fell into bed and were asleep in no time.
Tuesday 8th
El mercado -the market
We set out to find a bakery for breakfast but got sidetracked briefly in the market. This is not your average wet market that we have come to expect in Asia. No, this one sells delicacies like wine, cheese, sangria and specialty fruits and nuts. We vowed to return later in the day.
After breakfast we took the train and walked through Casa de Campo. It is Madrid's largest urban park and was formerly a royal hunting estate of the King who built a manor house linked to the Palace. Later, farms and fields bought from the areas surrounding the Casa de Campo were added. We only managed a small corner but we're very impressed by the number of runners, cyclists and families enjoying the outdoors in a true nature park, no manicured lawns here. Climbing to a vantage point we discovered an amusement park called the Parque de Atracciones de Madrid, and the Madrid Zoo are located inside the park. Pity the mornings are hazy, the skies clear in the afternoons. There is also a cable car that went on and on out of sight. The journey apparently starts near the Parque del Oeste, and takes you over the River Manzanares and into the Casa de Campo park, linking the two, for 2.5 kms.
We chose to cross the river on foot though and explored the Parque del Campo del Moro after lunch. The Jardins del Moro (Field of the Moor), beneath the Palacio Real, were designed to mimic the gardens surrounding the palace at Versailles and were so named because a Moorish army camped here in the 12th century. It later became a hunting park and in the nineteenth century was made into a public park, with a typical mixture of formal elements like the central avenue and fountains while retaining the forest.
Finally we took the train to Parque del Buen Retiro which literally means Park of Pleasant Retreat. A focal point is the lake at the foot of a massive ornamental structure, the Monument to Alfonso XII, complete with marble lions. Rented row boats were very popular with the locals. Amid the sprawling layout of the park we found a rose garden, many marble monuments, landscaped lawns, and buildings like the elegant Crystal Palace and the Palace of Velazquez with its mosaic walls and arches. Many families were out strolling and a few enthusiasts on roller blades were testing their 'not too untidy' skills.
Today has been another public holiday, this time for the Feast of the Immaculate Conception. Of all the many buskers on the streets we find the human statues captivating. We remember the gurus in their saffron robes who were here back in 2013, but we still find them intriguing!
After a rest with feet up we ventured back out for dinner. The streets were much quieter at night, the 4 day weekend is obviously over. We returned to the place we ate at on our first night and the staff were thrilled to have us back.
Wednesday 9th
cochina - cooking
When we left the hotel at 7:30am it was still as black as pitch. The streets were being swept and washed down and the only people about were the cleaners and a few tourists, who like us, we're dragging their bags to stations or taxis. We had rolls, orange juice and coffee at Atocha Stn then waited for our fast train to Antequera Santa Ana, then the bus connection to Granada. We were delighted with our apartment right in the heart of town. We found lunch, then the supermarket to stock the kitchen. I am looking forward to anything but bread rolls for breakfast and Eric is desperate to cook. He can't understand why no one else feels the same way. We have secured tickets to visit the Alhambra in the morning tomorrow so spent the afternoon relaxing in our spacious apartment. When he began cooking though, beer in hand and smile of contentment on his face the fuses blew. We took advice from the owner but nothing worked and so soon found ourselves sitting in the dark with nothing to do but watch the people, through the window, in the plaza below. Eventually the owner conceded that we would need to move and her colleague arrived and helped us walk to another apartment. We looked a bit of a sight dragging not only our bags but groceries and a casserole pot too. Our next apartment (Apartmentos de Santa Ana) was up several flights of steps in the streets but fortunately the building had a lift. We were happy with the room but even happier when we were taken to the rooftop terrace and there was the Alhambra flooded in night lights which we could enjoy from our own private space.
There had to be a bonus for that struggle up the street. This area is much quieter and the building older. In fact we were told they found a piece of the original wall dated 11th century in the building. We are now in the Albaicin quarter, with its distinctly Islamic character. The streets are very narrow and lined with houses or carmens (villas with gardens), plus numerous wells, some of which are still here. With the reconquest, the Albaicin was left for Muslims as their own place of residence, but soon the population dwindled. Eventually we sat down for dinner, feeling quite relaxed after sharing a glass or two of vino tinto on the terrace.
Thursday 10th
Cuanto cuesta? - How much is it?
The tickets were for 8:30am so no chance of a sleep in. The weather forecast is for cloudy but 18 deg which is good but it wasn't anywhere near that warm when we left our cosy apartment. We quickly warmed up though as we wound our way up from the city centre to the Puerta de la Justicia (Gate of Justice) at the end of a long leafy footpath. From there we followed a trail that took us to all the highlights of Moorish architecture and brilliant vantage points to photograph the vista overlooking Granada and across to the Sierra Nevada (snowy mountain range). The palace of the Alhambra is surrounded by a fortress, the walls of which stretch around the whole crest of a hill that overlooks the city.
One of the first features you notice is that there is no shortage of water here. Wherever you wander you can hear the tinkle of trickling fountains which have been fed by the Acequia Real, the main water channel which is 6 km of channel set just above the Darro River. The design of the system ensured a constant flow of water, refreshing this palatial city with its baths, pools, fountains and gardens using the natural flow of the river as well as several dams and waterwheels. There was also a well within the fortress. We found ourselves surrounded by beauty at every turn: white marble paving, reflective ponds, flowerbeds, arches and arcades, open filigree of the lanterns, lattice woodwork of ceilings and fretwork in plaster lining the walls along with mosaic tiles. It was all so richly finished and yet elegant rather than grandiose. Too hard to select which pictures to use or leave out.
We found the rooms where Washington Irving lived while he wrote his tales, which would become famous, and I am reading at present. From the palace we went to the alcazaba to see where the soldiers were garrisoned and the vantage points they held.
Then we wandered to the Generalife, a leisure place for the kings of Granada when they wanted to get away from the official affairs of the palace. In the gardens were more water features and masses of flowers, vegetables and fruit including orange, persimmon, fig, date, quince and pomegranate to name a few.
We still had the museum and gallery to explore before leaving. It is housed within the Palace of Charles V and claims to have the best collection of both Nasrid and Mudejar art in the world; Nasrid art is extremely rare, being limited to Granada in the 13th to 15th-centuries, when this dynasty ruled the city. We walked back down from the Generalife through the gardens with all their water features. The exterior of the palace appears rather austere compared to the beauty of its surrounds but the central courtyard is jaw dropping.
We had just spent four hours, walking non-stop really, through this UNESCO world heritage site and it was time for lunch and to put our feet up. We caught up on some reading, I went up on the terrace and almost fell asleep in the warm sunshine. In the afternoon we explored the Albaicin and found our way up to the Church of San Nicolás to enjoy the view of the Alhambra and the Generalife with the Sierra Nevada backdrop. We weren't the only ones there and it was pretty spectacular, but then none of these people get the view we have from our own terrace. With some groceries, we returned home and enjoyed a drink on the terrace soaking in that view as the sun set and the lights came on, then Eric cooked dinner.
Friday 11th
No entiendo - I don't understand
We had a bit of a late start, spending time digesting all the maps and recommended sites to see. First we booked our onward bus tickets to Malaga then walked along Gran Via de Colon towards Constitution Ave but we got sidetracked, as often happens, by interesting buildings or streets. We accidentally found the market, pity it is still too early for lunch.
Then we came upon the Cathedral. This place is colossal, built by Queen Isabella immediately after the conquest of Granada in 1492 on the site of the Mosque and it's a masterpiece of Spanish Renaissance style, although when the first foundations were laid it was designed to be built in Gothic style. It took over 180 years to complete. The main chapel has immense columns and high ceilings, and its walls are filled with beautiful stained glass windows and artworks. The organs are very impressive, in fact it is all very impressive.
We eventually got to Constitution Ave and found Puerta Elvira, an Arabic gate to the city built in the 11th century, which marked the main entrance. We walked along Elvira Ave towards the Jewish Quarter known as Realejo, stopping for lunch along the way. The Jews lived peacefully here in the days of the Moors but were evicted when the Catholics came to power. We made it down to the Rio Genil and followed along its banks for some distance as the gardens and fountains were lovely. One of the most important squares in the Realejo is the Campo de Príncipe located on the site of the former Muslim cemetery. The focal point of Campo de Príncipe is the statue of Cristo de los Favores, installed in 1640. Between 1679 and 1682, the entire province of Granada was devastated by the Bubonic Plague. Fortunately, the Realejo was the area which was least affected and this was attributed to the fact that the residents would pray before the statue. Such was the devotion to the statue that the Archbishop declared that anyone who prayed to the Cristo de los Favores by saying an 'Our Father' and an 'Ave María' would be granted 40 days of pardon. Nowadays, every Holy Friday crowds gather silently around the statue at 3pm to ask for three wishes. We enjoyed a drink in the square marveling at the bluest of blue skies and the magnitude of the imposing Hotel Palace Alhambra towering above us. The patrons would have some pretty good views from up there. We headed home to put our feet up again and I cooked dinner. Yes, you read that correctly, it was I.
Saturday 12th
Faso agua- glass of water
We were woken early by a call from Luke to announce that they have bought their first home this morning at auction in Wagaman. Such wonderful news there was no going back to sleep. Instead we enjoyed some local tea we bought yesterday and responded to emails and read. Eventually we made it out onto the streets and wandered up the Darro River along Carrera del Darro as far as we could, discovering old Roman baths along the way. Then we ventured up into the Sacromonte area, home to Granada's thriving Roma (gypsies originating in India) community.
Under the Muslims, they enjoyed relative tolerance. We visited the local folk museum to discover more about how they used the environment, cave building, and Roma crafts, food, and musical traditions. There were also great views over Granada and the Alhambra. It wasn't hard to imagine it in the 1950s, when it was still a bustling community of Roma cave-dwellers who were traditionally good with crafts and animals. In most of Spain, gypsies are more assimilated into the general population but here, Sacromonte is still a large, distinct Roma community, though after the civil war they were joined by many farmers who appreciated it's affordable, practical cave dwellings too — warm in the winter and cool in the summer.
Sacromonte claims to be an important stronghold for the development of Flamenco which is described as a fusion of Andalusian, Gypsy, Jewish and Moorish music and dances. In the times when the Catholics outlawed both the races and the frivolity of such entertainment, flamenco thrived in this area. We made our way back down to the riverside and ate lunch in the gorgeous sunshine with the Alhambra as our backdrop and under an awning covered in Jacaranda which is bare at this time but must be amazing when in flower. Just to put finishing touches to a great morning a troupe of flamenco performers worked the pavement.
In the evening we chose a quiet taverna just up the road. It was cosy inside but as we were seated we noticed it opened onto an interesting courtyard. Turns out this building was built in the 15th century. How do you begin to describe the atmosphere generated by the stone and plaster facades, the ironwork grilles, door knobs and latches and the ceramic tiles on the floor? It was beautiful, but too cold to sit out there tonight. Instead we opted for the cosy indoors and the food was delicious too.
Sunday 13th
La cuenta, por favor - the bill please
Well, we have loved Granada but today we are moving on. We were roused by another early morning call from Luke, they are so excited to talk about their new home and we are happy to share that enthusiasm. Times like this you long to be home. Alas, instead we made our way to the bus station and caught the one that left at 11am to Malaga. It is a dual highway all the way but we stopped off a number of times to drop or pick up passengers. It gave us an interesting view of these smaller places on a sleepy Sunday. I love visiting Spain but I don't envy them their accommodation. Most live in apartments in large drab blocks, often replicated a number of times in the one street. We passed by many olive groves again but also poplar plantations. Closer to our destination, an hour and a half away, we crossed over the hills and then followed the Rio Guadalmedina valley down into Malaga. Our taxi dropped us at Apartmentos Marques de le Merced, housed in a building dated 1900. Cosy and colourful are the two words that spring to mind. Who would think to put turquoise and lime green together in such a small space? We are well located though, very close to the Picasso Museum, Gibralfaro Castle, Alcazaba, Cathedral, Plaza de Toros and museum. Dropping our bags we went off to the plaza for lunch. It is obviously a popular meeting place and it is lined with eating options. On one corner stands the house where Picasso was born. In another a statue of Picasso sits on a bench, though it is not an accurate depiction because he left here as a child and never returned. Then we walked a few blocks just to get our bearings and a few things to stock the kitchen.
In the evening we struck out again and found ourselves at the door of MIM, the museum of interactive music. We ventured inside and found they had white rooms where you could see all the instruments of music throughout history, and red rooms where you could experiment. We had some fun and made some noise. They also had a concert taking place shortly so we hurried through to that auditorium only to discover it was youngsters (4 -10 yr olds). The piano was cute, the guitar was impressive, the violin sent us out.
The streets were beginning to fill with people. We tried a few tapas delights at Lola's and then some Irish delights at Druidas back at Plaza de la Merced. Here we stopped to chat with an artist we had watched earlier working on a large sketch of the square. He lives where his work takes him and I spent some time this afternoon reading his blog (thelostphotographer) which had some interesting insights into Spanish culture. Lucky it was just a short walk home. Never mind the dog shit in the street here, there are more oranges on the footpaths to avoid, fallen from the trees in every square and nature strip.
Monday 14
Tortilla - omelet
Luke's birthday. He is so happy being a first home owner. We haven't told him yet about rates, water bills and landlord's insurance. Time enough for all that to impact after he pays the agent's bills, solicitors and stamp duty etc.
With the luxury of a washing machine here, Eric started a load after much time wasted trying to figure the programs. Eventually we were free to head out and leave damp clothes hanging from every possible point but with windows open and fans on it should all dry. We followed the tourist map walking guide around town, taking diversions as we chose. The Cathedral here was built between 1528 and 1782, on or near the site of a former mosque once again. While original plans had allowed for two towers, only one was ever completed as a result of lack of funds. The story has it, that the funds were sent instead to help defeat Great Britain in the American War of Independence. The cathedral is affectionately referred to as "the one armed woman". We didn't enter this place of worship, we have done enough of that lately, but the building is impressive. We were also impressed with the much smaller but interesting Church of St John, first built in 1487 but then renovated a number of times, the latest in 1760. Its facade was covered with a network of red, yellow and grey shapes much like a mosaic. This was quite common in the 18th century apparently, but has mostly been plastered over on other buildings here.
There is a Picasso Museum here, as this was his birthplace. His most famous paintings are owned by other galleries, this one focuses on his journey as an artist through the different periods of his art and his contemporaries. It was good to have an audio guide as we viewed his works since neither of us has much idea about cubism. Then we visited a travel agent who helped us confirm bookings of buses, ferries and planes for our onward journey. The easiest way to get to Tangiers it seems, is to join a day trip but have an open return ticket. Too easy! Wandering home in the early evening we retraced our steps to catch the many beautiful Christmas lights in the streets but we were a bit too early so we stopped in at a little bar with flamenco performers and a very engaging waitress. She served us a complimentary Malaga Virgen as we paid the bill. It is a sweet fortified wine produced locally from muscatel grapes and does taste similar to Muscat. After that, we could only manage soup and tapas at Picasso's Bar in Plaza de Merced before returning home.
Tuesday 15th
Picante-spicy
Most of the washing was dry by morning and with the sun shining brightly we explored the Alcazaba, dating from the 11th century, which was the palace fortress of the Muslim rulers. We expected to be exploring ruins but in fact much of it has been restored so you get to appreciate the comforts and gardens enjoyed by the ruling class in their day. It had an interesting exhibition about the pottery and ceramics of the Moors. We especially appreciated the fabulous views of the city from each of the patios.
Then we climbed the zig-zag steps which lead up from the Plaza del General Torrijos to the top of Mount Gibrafaro. At 130m it is higher than Bukit Timah, but just one of the foothills of the Montes de Málaga, one of the three systems of mountain ranges in southern Iberia. The Castillo de Gibralfaro sits on the top, overlooking Malaga city and port, and dates back to the 10th century. The castle is famous for its three-month siege by the Catholic monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella, which ended only when hunger forced the locals to surrender. Afterwards Ferdinand occupied the site, while his queen took up residence in the town. Interesting historic fact: this was the first conflict in which gunpowder was used by both sides. We walked all the way around the ramparts enjoying the views and the trees.
At one point, you can get a good view down into La Malagueta Bullring and that is Plaza de le Merced top right in the image below.
Returning to street level we wandered through the gardens beside the beautiful City Hall then had a lovely shared plate for a well-earnt lunch. In the afternoon we decided to walk to the bus stop where we will meet the bus at 5:45am for our onward trip to Morocco. It will be dark and cold at that hour and we want to be sure we have plenty of time. It took almost half an hour, but we will also be dragging our luggage so will need to consider that. To get there we crossed the Guadalmedina again, only in town it is a man-made canal and very wide. I was intrigued to know why they would build such an enormous structure. Were they worried the dam wall might fail in an earthquake? It turns out the river has its source high in the Sierra de Camarolos Mountain Range and is subject to high seasonal variations. It has five well defined tributaries, all of which are dry most of the year. When this is the case, such as now, the canal provides a very suitable place for skate boards and rollerblading, not to mention street artists. When the snow melts though it is a very different story. Walking home we sat and watched the people go by from a comfortable position in the Irish Bar at our square then had dinner at an Italian restaurant nearby.
Wednesday 16th
Bali (but not sure how they spell it, guess it is slang) - OK
We walked to the Centre Pompidou Malaga in the morning. It is down by the harbour so we could see the docked cruise liners and ferries. The only branch of the museum outside France, it opened in March this year, housed in El Cubo - a colourful cuboid glass structure. The collection here is hung in 5 sections but they are all related to representations of the human form. We were very pleased to have great interpretation both on info plates and audio to help explain what we were looking at as we both find some modern art difficult to appreciate. The variety of media kept it really engaging.
Back out in the sunshine we took the opportunity to take a walk along the waterfront before heading back into the city. Phoenician cargo vessels docked here 3,000 years ago and Málaga has had a working port ever since. In recent years they have moved the ugly container ships and oil barges out of the old harbor to develop the waterfront and better accommodate the cruiser traffic with an attractive seaport as a gateway to the Costa del Sol. Wandering on we sat in the Plaza del Osipo facing the Cathedral to eat lunch. Every building lining this busy square is a picture in itself! We snuck into the Cathedral (couldn't leave town without a visit) to have a look at their nativity diorama.
The Mercado Central Atarazanas is the market in town. It's massive and very busy, operating in a fabulous building which was built for a completely different purpose. The name Atarazanas comes from Moorish times, and when translated from the Arabic means a ‘place where ships are repaired’. Most of current day Malaga was underwater during the Moorish rule and the Atarazanas was right at the sea’s edge. The Fourteenth Century shipyard was one of the largest, most impressive buildings of its time, characterised by the seven horseshoe arches that made up its facade. Only one of them remains after the building fell into disrepair and was all but demolished, saving just the one.
Thursday 17th
Thank you (Arabic) - shukraan
We rose early and headed off for the bus stop but found a taxi just across the square and took the easy option. At the appointed time of 5:45am a small sedan slowed to a stop and Enrique introduced himself as our guide. He took us on to meet the bus which then stopped a great number of times to collect all the other passengers. Enrique gave us an outline of the day in Spanish, then English, German and French. Not bad. It turns out he was actually born in Morocco, but to Spanish parents who were working there, and stayed until he was 17. So he is no stranger to the place, but even so we would collect another local guide once we disembarked. We followed the Costa Del Sol to Algeciras as the sun rose and saw the impressive Rock of Gibraltar from the bus window. This was one place we had hoped to include a trip to, but we just don't have time. At 426m it is located in the British overseas territory of Gibraltar, Crown property of the United Kingdom, which borders Spain. According to a myth originally fostered by the Greeks and the Phoenicians the Rock of Gibraltar was one of the Pillars of Hercules and was known to the Romans as Mons Calpe, the other pillar being Mons Abyla or Jebel Musa on the African side of the Strait. In ancient times, the two points marked the limit to the known world.
We eventually arrived at the Port of Tarifa in comfortable time to catch the 10am ferry for the one hour crossing. Its port is sheltered by a small island connected to the mainland by a causeway. That island includes the Punta de Tarifa, the southernmost point of continental Europe. A monument to Christopher Columbus – the Italian explorer who sailed with Spanish money, watches over the boats as they come and go. The Strait of Gibraltar, where the Mediterranean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean, was my challenge for the day but it looked calm and I was feeling confident that this time I would make it across in one piece. I did too, but only with the help of a big ice block to suck on. In the distance we can see Africa.
Our day tour of Tangiers began with a bus ride through the different neighbourhoods and an explanation of its interesting history, due to the presence of many civilizations and cultures starting from before the 5th century. The original inhabitants were Berber and then it became a Phoenician trading center. From 1923 up to 1956, Tangiers was a refuge for many cultures, considered as having international status by foreign colonial powers. It became a destination for many European and American diplomats, spies, writers and businessmen. During the war it was a safe haven for Jews too, and many have remained. There are churches, synagogues and mosques here and the locals who are predominately Sunni Muslim, are said to be very tolerant and cooperative. For panoramic views of the city, we drove up into the hills where the wealthy own huge villas and the king has a summer palace (but the bus didn't stop for us to see). There were also optional camel rides (in a carpark , you've got to be kidding).
Back down in town we first saw the Grand Socco, a large square at the main entrance of the medina. It is a big, busy roundabout really, and a good place to watch the chaos of traffic, carts and people go about their daily routines.
In the medina (old quarter) we walked through alleyways filled with shops and tea-houses. Tourist trinkets are plentiful here, and so are the men trying desperately for a sale. Today happened to be the weekly market, where people from the outskirts bring their goods for sale. Most of these are Berber women who wear traditional dress which includes a large straw hat as well as the scarf.
We had lunch at a colourful restaurant accompanied by a band playing traditional Andalusian Music and a belly dancer (which we were later informed is not traditional at all, just a way of getting bigger tips). Restaurant Mamounia Palace featured in the movie Inception and the most recent Bond movie, Spectre. The tiles were outstanding,
Next stop was the carpet retailer who explained all the styles and techniques used in the hand making of carpets. Finally we visited a Berber apothecary to learn about the natural remedies, cooking spices and cosmetic uses of plants. The pharmacy stocks the herbs and spices as well as items such as weight loss tea blends, saffron to increase blood flow and calm nerves, cumin to aid in digestion and even something to stop snoring. Oh how I now regret that I didn't invest in that! Some popular Berber remedies we learnt about included Argan Oil to silence a cough, or mixed with olive oil can be used to massage aching joints. The combination of mint and green tea gives the body extra antioxidants.
We were given a full rundown before at last emerging from the lively medina through the fortified walls of the Casbar, or old fort, where our bus was waiting to take us back to the ferry. In this older part of town the buildings are much more interesting than what you first find when the boat arrives in the more modern areas.
At the port we parted ways with the group and the guide kindly escorted us in a taxi to the Malabata Guest House where we had booked for the night. To get there we drove past the huge development project which will build a marina next to the ferry terminal and move the freight port away from the long stretch of public beach. Much the same as what has been achieved in Malaga. There is a lot of money being spent here and our guide tells us jobs in manufacturing are now plentiful, the government is providing cheaper housing to get rid of the slums and the economy is looking up. That's a nice change from most places we have visited in the last few years. Malabata is a cape to the east of Tangiers city. Our guest house is a family home, lavishly decorated throughout with colourful tiled walls, textured plaster finishes and fabulous soft furnishings. We were welcomed with a pot of mint tea, apparently it is central to social life in the Maghreb region (the northwest African countries of Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, and Mauritania). The tea is traditionally offered to guests as a sign of hospitality. Typically, at least three glasses of tea are served, and it is considered impolite to refuse it, but that wasn't a problem. They use Chinese green tea, fresh spearmint and it is always served sweetened and hot.
Our 3 course dinner was served in the dining room and there was so much of it we felt a little embarrassed by how much we sent back untouched. It was all delicious. Traditionally, Moroccans serve the first course as cold vegetables, often cooked, as salad. Next they serve a course where the main ingredient is meat, normally cooked in a tagine. A further course would be fruit or pastries if you could ever fit it in. We found the same thing in Turkey. Highly recommend Malabata Guest House where we had lots of fun with our English and our host's French.
Friday 18th
Sabah alkhyr - (Arabic) good morning
Shockran- thank you
Bakshish - service payment
So much to learn!
Our driver Hassan arrived, but couldn't speak conversational English as had been arranged through the booking, so I rang the company and we were shortly met by Moha who we learnt is from the southern region of Morocco. Only one generation ago his family were herdsmen, living a nomadic life in the desert fringes. He is very grateful that he escaped that life, managing to go to both school and then university in Fez and now works as a tourist guide and lives in Tangiers with his wife. It was very interesting to listen to him talk about his family and childhood. In no time we were pleased that we had stood our ground and held out for the English speaking guide. For the first 2 hours we travelled through rural areas that could have been a setting in Australia. The soils are fertile and the farming intensive. We saw crops of vegetables, grain and orchards. Even bananas and strawberries growing under hectares upon hectares of plastic.The only differences really are that shepherds watch over the flocks of sheep and cattle and that farming is not mechanised. They use donkeys and bullocks in the fields and often for transport.
Once we turned inland and headed to the ancient Roman ruins of Volubilus though, the hills were barer and crops replaced with olive and almond groves.
The ruins, located in a sweeping valley, were amazing and our guide was very well informed. This is another UNESCO Cultural Site where the French did much of the excavation and reconstruction. In its heyday, Volubilus was home to 20,000 people and was the westernmost extremity of an empire that once stretched to the gates of Persia. The site is dominated by the remains of the grand public buildings around the forum, with the impressive arches of the Basilica courthouse standing in front of pillars of the temple to the god Jupiter. A triumphal arch, marks the beginning of the city's Main Street which was lined with shops and nearby stood large villas with colourful floor mosaics which are still visible and make this ruin famous. In one floor mosaic, Orpheus plays his harp with wild animals all around him, in another Bacchus (the God of wine) features, suggesting the inhabitants liked their glass of grape juice. Another depicts the four seasons.
Not far off we could see the white walls of houses and mosques that form the township of Moulay Idriss closely knitted onto two rocky outcrops. This is a pilgrimage centre, having the tomb of its namesake, the great great grandson of the prophet Mohammed. For Moroccans unable to make the pilgrimage to Mecca this is an alternative. Moulay came to Morocco from Arabia and was accepted as an imam by the local tribe of Volubilus in 788, introducing Islam.
We travelled on to Meknes, one of Morocco's four Imperial cities though not as large as Rabat, as fashionable as Marrakech, or as famous as Fez. This one was built by Moulay Ismail ibn Sharif who reigned from 1672–1727, the second ruler of the Moroccan Alaouite dynasty. He is known in his native country as the "Warrior King" and as a fearsome ruler who used at least 25,000 slaves for the construction of his capital here. His Christian slaves were often used as bargaining counters with the European powers, ransoming them back for inflated sums or for rich gifts. Most of his slaves were obtained by Barbary pirates in raids on Western Europe. It is said the ruins of Volubilus were actually in good shape until the 18th century when Sultan Moulay Ismail pulled them down to use for the monumental palace he was building in nearby Meknes in the process of moving the capital from Fez. We had lunch at about 3pm on a rooftop terrace overlooking the ancient walls and underground prison where the King held his slaves and political dissidents captive. In total the walls stretch over 50kms and many workers died in the process, their bodies interred in the walls. This ruler was a megalomaniac, one of the fiercest rulers in history accredited with the deaths of many people by his own hand and siring a total of 867 children, including 525 sons and 342 daughters, often without the consent of the women he took as virgins to serve his needs.
After lunch we visited the underground prison (very briefly, most uncomfortable down there) then the tomb of Moulay Ismail where several elegant courtyards lead to the main enclosure. Non-Muslims are not admitted as it is a sacred place of pilgrimage and prayer, but that's okay, we were just happy to see the lovely building.
Next we visited the massive royal stables and granary, constructed to comfortably house no less that twelve thousand royal horses. It seems Ismail had more respect and admiration for these gracious animals than he did for his human workers. Our guide there was not only very informative, he was also a keen photographer and trickster. A canal ran fresh water through the stables constantly, so the horses never lacked clean water. To feed that many horse he had to store large amounts of grain, and it had to be kept cool. So, the granaries were constructed over a reservoir, with thick walls, plants were grown on the roof (which was destroyed in an earthquake) and water from the reservoir below was forced through ducts in the floor using a waterwheel. Pretty clever engineering for 17th century. Mind you he had man power to turn the wheels. These buildings and reservoirs are all within the massive walls but separated again by inner walls from the royal palace which is still the current king's residence when he visits, though that is rare.
We drove around the lake before heading out through the gates, back into the township that sits on the outside of the walls to visit the square and medina. Dominating the southern end of the square is the majestic gateway of Bab Mansour, which is the entrance to the imperial court. Moulay Ismail commissioned it but it was finished during his son’s reign. It is beautifully decorated with richly coloured tiles and using some marble columns from Volubilus.
Being Friday, the market was closed but the square was full of people being entertained by snake charmers, captive monkeys, musicians, acrobats and comedians. Everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves except me because I was terrified I would have a snake placed around my shoulders.
It was very lively and noisy and as we left the sunset clothed it all in rich tones. We drove on to Fez, the third largest city of Morocco, with a population of over one million and we were pretty weary by the time we arrived. Moha navigated the car through some heavy traffic snarls getting into the city and he deposited us at Riad Al Makan. Riad means traditional house surrounding a courtyard with the rooms looking inwards. Makan is the neighbourhood. Once again it is beautifully finished in every way. Arab houses do not look attractive from the outside, the owners worry about the evil eye; that neighbours will think you are showing off your wealth and feel happy to relieve you of some of it. Instead, they leave the exterior very basic but richly decorate the inside with every colour, texture and comfort they can squeeze in for their family and guests. We had dinner in the dining room accompanied by a bottle of Meknes wine, just as the Romans of Volubilus would have done.
Saturday 19th
Shockran bazzaf- thank you very much
Inshallah - God willing
Fez is the medieval capital of Morocco founded by Idris I in 789. We were met after breakfast by Hassan, a local guide who walked us through the largest of the two medinas, Fes el Bali, with a population of over 150,000 within its walls. Wow, you could get lost in there very easily and Google Maps would be of no use whatsoever. It is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is believed to be one of the world's largest car-free urban areas. Hassan pointed out a lone palm tree on the far side from one elevated spot; our point of return. We thought at the time it wasn't that far but it took 2 hours to get there. You might just be able to find it in the left pic below. Within the medina, transport of goods is provided by donkeys, mules and handcarts. Some of the walkways are so narrow they are marked one way, pedestrians can go in either direction but animals cannot pass one another. We saw one alley where even Eric would have needed to turn sideways.
It is home to many neighbourhoods, once separated by huge doors that were closed at night for safety, but no longer needed and only the doorways remain. If you lived here you would never need to leave as it has shops, cafes, workshops, schools (including the oldest university in the world) and mosques.
We saw artisans weaving, embroidering, working brass and copper, carving and doing leatherwork. You can even buy your wedding attire and hire the ornate accessories here.
The most extensive industry in there is the tannery. Houses in that particular neighbourhood are very cheap because of the awful smell. It takes some getting used to. The leather-making techniques are unchanged since the Middle Ages. We could see the men walking the narrow paths hauling heavy loads of wet skins between the pits or stomping on them in the huge vats, doing the initial treatment of the hides using lye and pigeon poo (for the ammonia). The dyes used are all natural products from plants. The dying pits are currently being renovated but we could watch a short video from a showroom where we could also buy products (of course). We managed to get away lightly with a belt and two pairs of shoes. At another shop it was fun having my head wound Berber style in a scarf, so next time I am in the desert I am sure that will come in handy. Very becoming!
The religious college had elaborately carved wooden walls with geometric patterns and Arabic calligraphy, and a beautiful minaret. Many of the mosques have beautifully decorated exteriors although entrance is forbidden to all foreigners considered to be non-Muslim. From the terrace above the carpet shop we had excellent panoramic views over the medina and the wider city, as well as the surrounding olive tree-lined hills. It would be spectacular during sunset and after dark, but to be honest I don't think I would want to be in there at that time. The carpets we could resist, having already fallen for that trick in Istanbul on and earlier trip, but it took some effort. In one small square, men sat on stools outside in the sunshine, banging copper into shape as they made pots in front of their stores. It was noisy to say the least. The squawk of the chicken nearby and the frantic flap of its wings in the seconds before it had its throat cut was a little unsettling since we'd been following it just moments before. The turkey seemed less perturbed.
It is easy to lose track of time in there. Not just the amount of time you have been wandering through the labyrinth, but also that it is 2015; so many things have remained the same for thousands of years here (it was founded in the 9th century). On the other hand there have been upgrades you can easily overlook, like street lights for the night and the fact that many people walk around with a mobile phone glued to their ear. The street water points (they call them fountains) remain, but most homes have running water. Nowadays the streets are named and the doorways numbered so that must make it a lot easier for the postal service.
After 4 hours we arrived back at our Riad, a little weary and thirsty. Soon we were in the car and on our way to Chefchaouen, a four hour drive up into the Rif mountains, the same ones we had seen from Volubilus. In the foothills the fields were all ploughed, waiting for rain. Some have the opportunity to irrigate from large reservoirs we passed; a project that the previous King instigated. It is olive picking time, a job still done by hand in teams. As we drove higher and higher we had sweeping views across the plains and towards the bald hills.
Unlike all the other townships we have seen along the way, Chefchaouen is starkly blue and white; reminding me of the villages of the Aegean Islands. Apparently the Jewish refugees, who took up residence here during the Spanish Inquistion in the 15th century, brought with them their tradition of painting things blue to mirror the sky and remind them of God. The color, like a blue rinse, covers not only Chaouen's houses but its government buildings, public squares and even its lampposts and trash cans. If you see any other colour it will likely be the green door or roof of a mosque.
Our accommodation was once again lovely, at Dar Echaouen (bottom right above), a hotel finished in rustic style and colourful gardens. We were put in a suite of rooms which was really unnecessary since we only had the one night. Would have been nice to stay longer mind you. The dinner, served downstairs in the dining room with an open fire crackling was delicious. Afterward, we soon fell into bed though as it had been a very long day.
Sunday 20th
Hamamms (Arabic) - public baths for women while men sit at the cafes drinking coffee
It was still dark when we had breakfast but Moha was keen to get the walking tour away early. As soon as the sun rose above the hills we began in the old town with its unique colour scheme. I suspect this place has perhaps the most photographed Medina of them all. So unique.
We finished in a square called Plaza Uta el-Hammam outside the gate of the restored kasbah, a fortified house for the ruler, which is open to the public but not at this hour. We sat in the sunshine and watched as the stalls opened and people began milling about. Today being Sunday it will be busy here later, as this village is quite a tourist attraction for locals too. This would be a great place to take a three day hike through the mountains in the National Park if you had the time. But we don't, we have a ferry to catch.
While Moha retrieved the car we got chatting to an old chap who makes beanies and before you knew it we owned 2, then we set off for Tangiers. It was with regret that we said goodbye to Moha, he has been a terrific driver, guide and storyteller. Back in Tangiers we only had to wait about an hour at the ferry terminal before boarding and once again I am happy to report a smooth crossing. On reaching Tarifa we were ushered onto a bus even though we had not paid for any tickets and in a short time we were in Algeciras. As Eric stepped off the bus he was offered a lift in a car to Malaga. An offer he couldn't refuse and had agreed to before I got a chance to negotiate a more favourable price. Eric just wanted to get 'home' to Malaga. Some of the wind must have escaped his sails though when we eventually found the car, a Renault that came off the production line the same year I was born I think, and every panel dinted. But, Abdul delivered us safely to our door in Malaga and a lot earlier than a bus would have managed, so Eric felt vindicated and I am still recovering from the petrol fumes that permeated into the back seat (just like the FJ Holden our family had in the 60's).
We arrived at the door of the Barcello Hotel just as the Athletico de Madrid bus was waiting for the players to board and go to the ground to play against Malaga. It seems we have picked the place to be seen this evening. But nobody took any notice of us as we threaded our way through the crowds and checked in.
After a short break we went to the huge Maria Zambrano Train Station next door looking for something to eat, fast and simple. We discovered Chur Restaurant where the chef serves any number of different cuts of meat to your table, carving it directly off the skewer. It is accompanied by refillable garden salad, rice, Brazilian beans with bacon and bread. You can carry on eating as long as you want and the chef will carry on serving slices of meat. We found the food to be excellent and the service first class considering this was a fixed price deal. Our meal included a bottle of red wine and a mug of beer, dessert and coffee for 20 Euro. This is any man's heaven, no?
Monday 21st
dolor de cabeza (Spanish again) - headache
Had a wonderful sleep-in at the Barchello Hotel then walked next door to the train station for the 15 min trip to the airport. I have woken with a thumping headache and sore throat so it was all really good timing if one of us was going to be unwell. Malaga defeated Athletico Madrid, a good result as it was a must win match for Malaga to avoid relegation. Driving around Morocco, Moha told us a little about a Moroccan man named Ibn Battuta who was perhaps the greatest traveler ever. At the time we didn't get a chance to look him up so I did while we sat in the departure lounge. In an era when few possessed the courage and curiosity (let alone the money) to venture into the unknown, Ibn Battuta made a tremendous journey which took nearly 30 years between 1325-54. That is about 50 yrs after Marco Polo set off. He covered North Africa, Egypt, and the Swahili coast; reached Mecca on the Arabian Peninsula, passing through Palestine and Greater Syria en route; swung through Anatolia and Persia to Afghanistan; crossed the Himalayas to India, then Sri Lanka and the Maldives; and reached the eastern coast of China before turning around and zigzagging all the way back to Morocco. Along the way he made notes and when he eventually returned home the sultan had a scribe write them up. Behold, the original Lonely Planet. We have learnt that in Spain you can buy duty free products when travelling domestic. Interesting, and too good an offer to refuse so we picked up a cheeky Malaga Virgen to take home and another to sample between here and there.
It was interesting to fly overland, we got a birds-eye view of the Sierra Nevada that cross Andalucia and the fertile valleys that are worked like a patchwork quilt. We took the metro to the station right by Pio Xii Apartments and settled in. Across the road we found a shopping centre where we picked up some groceries. We even have an oven in this place, more important to me a washing machine so I put a load on but it still wasn't finished by the time I fell asleep.
Tuesday 22nd
ciclo de centrifugado - spin cycle
Found the spin cycle in the morning and hung the load out on the balcony before we set off for the day. It is going to be a pleasant 17 deg again so good prospects of coming home to clean and dry clothes. We crossed a long strip of parkland, called the Jardines del Turia built on the former riverbed, to get to the old quarter. Already we have decided to hire bikes tomorrow and ride through the park. But our walk today began at the Mercado Central. On the way into the heart of the old town we found lots of impressive street art, quite unlike the other cities we have visited in Spain. Reminded us of Melbourne.
We found the beautiful mercado, said to be Europe's largest and oldest, a lively place with more than 900 stalls selling fruit, vegetables, spices, seafood, meat, cheese, nuts, olives, cured meats, and more. The massive building has gorgeous stained glass windows and colorful mosaics. Despite the fact that this was our first point of interest for the day, Eric bought a paella pan, rice and spices to carry all the rest of the way. This is the home of paella after all.
There is no way I can remember all the delightful things we saw or in what order, suffice to say we were enchanted. Every time we turned a corner for the next 6 hours we seamed to be facing something else that impressed. It might have been a bell tower or a charming square or even a bank as in the image at right below.
We really enjoyed the tour of the Cathedral, once again erected on a site where the existing mosque had been razed. The audio was really well done and we got to see what is believed to be the Holy Grail and some of Goya's paintings. Of all people, fancy me getting to see the Book of Kells and the Holy Grail all in about 6 months!
Behind the cathedral we discovered the beautiful Basilica of the Virgin and were able to listen to a harpist playing, though entry was denied. We had hoped to climb the Cathedral's bell tower to have panoramic views over the city but it was closed. Another building we entered was the National Museum of Ceramics. The building was the palace of the Marques de Dos Aguas and has a very fancy 18th century rococo facade of alabaster. There are amazing ceramics and lavish furnishings inside including 18th century carriages, the 19th century palacial rooms, medieval ceramics and modern ones too.
Stepping outside we were just in time to catch some young girls playing the haunting 'Canon in D' by Pachelbel on violins which was just so appropriate to this setting. Beautiful. On leaving the old quarter we climbed the Torres de Quart, one of only two monumental gates that still stand in the old Christian city wall built in the 14th century. There were originally twelve gates. The building has been used through the centuries as both a women's prison and a military prison. The views were well worth the climb.
We left the old quarter through the main gate, Torres de Serranos (bottom pic), then walked along the Jardins del Turia again to get back to the supermarket where Eric collected up the rest of the ingredients required to christen his paella pan. This included rabbit, a traditional meat used, the original paella recipes never included seafood. I was just ready to put my feet up after that big day out.
Wednesday 23rd
ciclismo - cycling
An overcast morning didn't stop us hiring bikes and taking to one of the largest urban parks in Spain; the Jardines del Turia which runs for 9 kms through the city. The garden belt was built on the former riverbed of the Rio Turia, whose course was altered to prevent constant flooding in the city up to 1957. Several urban planners and landscape designers created different sections of the park, including ornamental trees and orange groves, fountains and ponds, sports facilities and performance venues. There are children's parks and playgrounds for the young at heart and exercise circuits for the grownups.
A total of 18 bridges, the oldest being Puente de la Trinidad from the 15th century (image below), cross this former riverbed which passes by the city's main museums and monuments. The Cabecera Park and Bioparc are at the western end and the futuristic City of Arts and Sciences at the opposite end, near the marina. We took off in that direction first as we were keen to see the Museum of Science. Along the way we enjoyed seeing plenty of other people, dogs and birds enjoying the wide open spaces. It is obviously popular with runners, cyclists and families, all of which we saw in numbers but because it is so long it was never crowded. So different to the network of roads and built environment of the old city we explored yesterday.
Crossing under 13 of the bridges, we covered most of the park before arriving at the eye catching City of Arts and Sciences. It really is an astonishing zone with 6 buildings in all. They include an Opera House and Performing Arts Centre, the Imax Cinema, Planetarium and Laserium, the Walkway/Garden with carpark below, the Science Museum, the Open-air Aquarium and finally the Agora — a versatile open space for holding varied events (at this particular time a Christmas themed market). It is all surrounded by pools of water which add reflective angles to the views as you walk around and gives it all a very relaxing feeling.
We browsed through the Science museum but to be honest, this was one place where our lack of Spanish detracted from the experience. The design of the whole place was inspiring though. We peddled on to the marina before doubling back and heading for home. We stopped off at one of the cafes in the gardens for a late lunch before we returned the bikes and spent the chilly late afternoon indoors catching up on emails and reading then eating in again for dinner.
Thursday 24th
Nochebuena - Christmas Eve
A brighter sky greeted us as we walked to the bus station for the 10am trip to Barcelona. We've thoroughly enjoyed our days in Valencia and think it would be a very easy city to live in. For the next 4 hours we travelled through orange groves that gave way to olives in the drier zone, then we followed the coast into Barcelona. Traffic was quite heavy there, many stores closing for siesta and the next few days of Christmas. We caught a taxi to BCN apartment near Parc Guell where we found ourselves on the ground floor for once! Quite spacious with a private patio to boot. Across the street were several supermarkets, a bakery, fruit shops and a bank. We stocked up for the next few days in case we find everything closed. In the street is a huge mural with a dedication to a name I didn't recognise. On researching it I found it was a little house of ill-repute, not at all what I was expecting! After dinner we could hear fireworks exploding as Christmas arrived.
Friday 25th
Feliz Navidad y Próspero Ano Nuevo -Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year
We managed to speak with some of the family in the morning, though it is evening in Aust already. Traditionally the Spanish celebrate Christmas with a family lunch but the biggest Christmas celebrations are on the 5th and 6th of January, when the Three Kings arrive loaded with presents for the children. So, we left home in the morning not sure what to expect but figuring we might have Parc Guell pretty much to ourselves. How wrong that premise was! There were as many people there this time as the last time we visited and that was in the heart of summer. Never mind, we still enjoyed the visit, inspired by Gaudi's ability to bring nature and architecture together so beautifully and on such an astonishingly grand scale. The area sits high above the city so to get to it we took the escalator through the suburban streets. Eusebi Guell bought the parcel of land, intending to turn it into an estate for well-off families and had his good friend Gaudi design and develop it. But the project became unviable, mostly because of the nature of its location and lack of proper transport, so the work was halted and later sold to the city council. UNESCO has declared it a site of Cultural Heritage of Humanity. You need to buy tickets to get into the Monument Precinct and these are time zoned to manage the crowd. We had to wait about 45 mins to enter so we sat in the sunshine with a litre of Sangria and enjoyed the ambience. Well, you can only buy it by the litre, or more!
Monument Precinct is full of brilliant colour and eye-catching texture. Eric's favourite structure is the undulating boundary wall of the Placa de la Natura which forms a bench covered with tile-shard mosaics and glass nodes.
While I love that too, I find the portico, which makes me feel like I am walking though a massive wave, not so colourful but astonishing. You just want to sweep your hands along the curves and hug the leaning uprights. Gaudi used the natural features and fall of the land, then enhanced it with other references to nature.
And then there are the houses, stairways and fountains.
Once we left the park we ambled downhill, dropping into a nice little cafe for lunch, then caught the metro to Sagrada Familia. This giant Basilica, designed by Gaudí but being collaborated on with many other designers, has been under construction since 1882 and they've still got another 30 to 80 years (depending on funding and resources) to go before it will be finished. It is hard to imagine the dedication, devotion and commitment involved in creating a building for that length of time. Yet a number that we have seen this trip took a similar length of time to complete. We were keen to see what work had been done since we were last standing in front of it. It is so unique, and the shear size of it is breathtaking.
Then we went to Placa Catalunya and walked down Las Rambles, the city's pedestrian mall and the place to be seen if you are promenading like us today. The last time we were here Placa CatalunyaI was inhabited by long-term protesters reacting to the economic mismanagement of Spain. I was surprised by the number of stores that opened in the late afternoon. None of the performing statues were present this time but the crowds built as the afternoon wore on. We diverted to Placa Real and sat to do some people watching and just soak up the family-outing atmosphere. That is what is missing from our day. As much as we can fill it with new places or refresh our memories of previous visits, there is no denying we are missing our family and have vowed to be back in Australia by this time next year.
We moved on through the Gothic Quarter, to the Cathedral which, unlike all the others we have seen, is not built where a mosque was destroyed. This time it was Roman ruins, the Moors didn't get quite this far north. It is in the placa here that you can find the human towers (Castello) being built every Saturday evening during the Summer months. This evening though we were entertained by a busker playing the pan flute, the world's oldest wind instrument. I guess that is why its tone always seems to wistful.
We returned to Placa Catalunya to see the fountains turn different colours once the daylight faded, then made our way home under the colourful street lights. Eric cooked up a spaghetti bolognaise (very slowly and patiently with poor facilities) for a late dinner.
Saturday 26th
Bon Natal - Merry Christmas (Catalonian language this time)
We have really enjoyed catching up with all the news via email from friends we often only get in contact with on special occasions like Christmas. So good to have access to electronic mail these days or we would be waiting until we got home. We already have 3 lots of visitors planning a stopover in 2016 which we are looking forward to.
We began our day on the metro to Av. Diagonal which is a wide, tree-lined avenue that cuts right across the city. It has so many interesting buildings! We kept telling ourselves to stop taking pictures of them but....and we hadn't even got to Passeig de Gracia where some of Gaudi's most impressive architectural work can be found. Quite near the junction we found Casa Terrades, also known as Casa de les Punxes for instance. The towers give the building a Walt Disney-style castle look.
The facade of Casa Batllo, (above left) perhaps Gaudi's most famous renovation, is colourful and seems to have so much movement for a fixed structure. Made of stone, glass and ceramics it is really colourful. But to get inside you have to pay €21 which I thought was extravagant so we moved on. Casa Amarller is the building next door, also in the Modernisme style. The Modernisme movement was centred in the city of Barcelona, though it reached far beyond, characterized by the predominance of the curve over the straight line, by rich decoration and detail.
We meandered on to Palau de la Musica Catalana, the concert hall. In 1997 it was declared a UNESCO world heritage site and is known as the masterpiece of Modernisme. We were able to see the original entrance and wander into the auditorium but I was most keen to see the concert hall, which is the only auditorium in Europe that is illuminated during daylight hours entirely by natural light. The walls on two sides consist primarily of stained-glass panes set in magnificent arches, and overhead is an enormous skylight of stained glass. However there were no tickets left for an English speaking tour today.
Back on Las Ramblas we ate lunch at a Turkish Cafe then wandered on down to the port area. At that lower end of the street we found a number of the human statues we had been looking for. They are artists who have applied and done their show in front of a artistic jury of the City Council and are "allowed to occupy this public space with their costume, their character or their characterization which will likely receive attention and money". All very organised, each statue standing on Las Ramblas, has its place and its time to work: 27 workers are divided into two shifts, morning and evening, and they have a license to operate in exchange for 189 euros.
We were amused to watch the illegal street vendors, predominantly West African guys hawking fake Chanel bags and Gucci sunglasses, on the streets. They have been present in all the Spanish cities we have stayed on this trip. They seem to play a game of cat and mouse with the local police force, drawing the most attention while running through metro stations or along the city streets, with police officers chasing them, usually in vain, it seems. The sheets most of them lay out on the pavements are laced at each corner with ropes for a quick getaway when the police approach. I like the umbrella idea below for displaying earrings. They have even established a union recently to fight apparent discrimination, racism and police violence. The Barceona City Council is conscious of their dilemma, understanding that it is a social, rather than police, response needed. Socially excluded immigrants, mostly illegal themselves, have little choice but to work for the underground counterfeiting economy. They tend to be economic refugees from Senegal, Cameroon, Congo, Gambia, Ghana and Nigeria and It would seem with the current humanitarian crisis reaching Europe’s shores, the problem will only get worse. The police are frustrated with the customs and tax agency, arguing that if it found more of the illegal merchandise in the first place, then the illegal vendors would have nothing to sell. Its all a catch 22 but entertaining for the people sitting in sidewalk cafes.
Port Vell was a very popular spot for a walk. We orientated ourselves at the Columbus Monument which stands a colossal 60m high, then joined the throng. When the area was upgraded for the 92 Olympics they retained the historic buildings but also developed a "Maremagnum" (a shopping mall and nightlife complex), a multiplex cinema and Europe's largest aquarium. Because it is located in a designated tourist zone, the Maremagnum is the only commercial mall in the city that can open on Sundays and public holidays. Oh, that explains the crowds. The pedestrian walkway, Rambla de Mar, connects to La Rambla and incorporates a swing bridge to allow ships to enter and exit the harbour.
Overhead we could see the port cable car that cuts across the city's skyline to the slopes of Montjuic. A second cable car can be taken to the very top where a castle dominates the skyline. Oh my aching legs, time to head home. We found ourselves at the gates of Circ Raluy which I had read about somewhere. It is both a historic travelling circus and travelling museum of old circus caravans. It even has a circus hotel where guests can stay in traditional circus carriages converted into guest rooms, but that's an experience we can look forward to if we ever return.
We caught the metro then bought a few supplies to take back to Sg for afternoon tea to share with staff next week. Our trip is coming to an end!
Sunday 27th
adios - goodbye
Our arrangements to have the bags collected and stored at the airport fell through so instead we took them with us into town and stored them by Placa Catalonia for the day. Then we took off on foot to explore the corners of the city we hadn't seen yet. By the cathedral is an old Roman ruin, once the hall where the poor were fed when a Roman Church stood next door. Inside there is now a 'Walking with Gaudi' exhibition which we decided to join. They provided an amazing 180º video introduction which explains how he drew from nature to design his structures. There was also a 3D interactive exhibit which we really enjoyed. The rest was a self guided tour with audioguide to help explain designs, models, documents and unique personal pieces. It is disturbing to think this genius, who gave so much joy to the world for generations to come, could be unrecognised when knocked down by a tram in his own city and ignored, later to die of his injuries.
We found it all very interesting and It was lunchtime already by the time we emerged back out into the sunshine so we found a nice Italian restaurant then headed to Parc de la Ciutadella nearby. It was built for the 1888 Universal Exhibition (a world fair) and relics can still be seen today in buildings like the Castell dels Tres Dragons, which housed the original restaurant, the outstanding waterfall and a lake which was popular with locals in rented boats. The Catalan Parliament stands on one side and coming upon a giant mammoth statue was a surprise.
Next we wandered down Passeig Lluís Companys, a wide boulevard where smaller events and festivals are often held, towards the Arc de Triomf. This was built as the gateway to the fair. Along the way we were enthralled by a marionette show performed by two young women. The red brick arch stood majestically tall and solid against a magically blue sky.
We went back to the Palau de la Musica Catalana in the vain hope that we could catch a tour but to no avail. We had to settle for a drink in the beautiful foyer area.
It was beginning to get chilly so we headed back to collect our bags and took the express bus to the airport where we awaited our flight home. It is sad to be leaving Spain, we both really enjoy visiting, feel very comfortable on the streets, love the food and find the people very friendly and generous despite our lack of Spanish. The streets come to life when the sun goes down. On a warm evening the street cafes and bars can fill to capacity as people sit and relax. They are a very happy people who enjoy life to the full. They love music, food and family - sound familiar? The one unexpected outcome on the downside was the lack of bird watching opportunities. Not to worry, there are some waiting for us back home.
