So there we were, on another Sunday night after work at the end of term at Changi Airport. Craig and Melisa from Kovan branch were on the same flight but heading to Italy once we reach our stop over in Istanbul. The week sped by, not many students in our classes as school finished two weeks ago and many are away on holidays. We managed a few walks and Eric got his camera serviced, but otherwise it was just preparing to be away for a fortnight. Sandy fitted in a Skype just before we left the house and Adrian sent an email with news of a new job in Alice so it is all good.
It is so easy to get a taxi and a plane out of Singapore that you forget what some of the other terminals are like and take it for granted that things will operate efficiently. Boy, we had a wake up call at Istanbul where the queue for international transfer snaked on endlessly. At least we had plenty of time so we weren't panicking about making the connection, but we were tired after working all day and then doing over ten hrs on the plane. The second leg to Dublin was only half that long and we seemed to have more room though the plane was smaller. We picked up our little Nissan Micra hire car and set off along the M1 towards Belfast.
So good to be driving on the left hand side, but the language can be tricky.
It has been a lovely drive through emerald green fields dotted with flocks of blackfaced sheep and herds of dairy cows. Along the way we took a detour into Bru na Boinne, one of the top 10 sights to visit. We got there just before lunchtime, since we had moved our clocks back 7 hours, so Eric enjoyed his first Guinness pie and I had a baked potato, naturally. This area is known as the palace of the Boyne, a UNESCO world heritage site, with amazing prehistoric passage tombs that are believed to have been originally built in reverence to the sun and the seasons. We spent some time at the visitor centre and then took a tour of one of the complexes at Knowth which is dominated by a great mound outlined by more than 100 kerbstones, many of which have been etched with Neolithic artistic patterns thought to represent the sun and phases of the moon. The passages are cut east and west and have been aligned to catch the beams of sunrise and sunset at the solstice. There are also many smaller satellite tombs. It is certainly very easy to believe that the people who lived in this area, and were known to be farmers, would have regarded the seasons, the changing position of the sun and the length of the days as hugely important so building monuments to the sun is very likely. Why and who the chosen people were who were buried here is less easily explained. It is quite amazing to see these structures that have been here for more than 5000 years. They predate Stonehenge by 1000 and the ancient pagodas of Bagan by more than 2000. Of course in all that time the place has seen many changes in who inhabited the area from Neolithic to the Bronze Age, then the Vikings, the Normans and the Christians. What a gem to find on our first day.
Eric did a great job driving on to Belfast and we managed to find the Europa Hotel without too many u-turns and circuits around the city blocks despite our Google maps connection failing us. The problem was we bought data sim cards in Dublin on arrival but then drove into Northern Ireland, a different country and the network doesn't extend here. We checked in and immediately got under the shower and cleaned our teeth. Daren't count the hours since we last did that.
We wandered into the Crown Bar across the road and Eric immediately struck up conversation with another couple, who among other things, recommended a stop off at Enniskillen Lakes district. The Crown is a typical example of a Snug Bar, where you sit with your group of friends in a booth or, if you are like us with no friends, at the bar. It was very cosy and warmly decorated with lots of painted glass and wood paneling. Those big barrels behind the bar you see below, are sherry barrels that are used for holding the triple distilled whiskey in oak. It was here that we learnt that the Europa has the reputation for being the 'most bombed' hotel during 'the troubles' as most of the foreign press stayed there. In fact it was evacuated more hundreds of times for bomb threat hoaxes, and 28 actual bombings.
Tuesday 16th
We didn't sleep as well as I expected, too hot of all things, and no way to control it. One doona on the bed and it was so heavy! We had breakfast at the hotel at a window seat where we could sit and watch the daily parade of people heading off to work. That was a good feeling, we really felt like we were on holidays then. Eric is determined to taste everything Irish so he helped himself to a small serve of black pudding but decided it must be an acquired taste, one he didn't really need to peruse. Then we took a Black Taxi Tour of 'The Troubles' as the conflict between the late 1960’s and 1998 became known, dividing the nation, mainly between Nationalist Catholics and Unionist Protestants. The Agreement on Good Friday (April 10th, 1998) brought an end to 30 years of suffering and bitter feuding between these communities. Throughout 'The Troubles' both sides painted large murals on buildings, particularly in residential areas at the end of terraced rows. Our driver Kenny took us from the usually neutral city centre through the political districts where we were shown many of the murals and even stopped to talk with one of the artists, Denny, who is quite famous. He either touches up the old ones or paints new ones, no one would dare to stop him. There is a huge wall in place to keep the two districts divided and very few gates in it that remain open which must cause huge inconvenience to people going about their daily business. Many of the murals glorify paramilitary groups such as the Irish Republican Army (IRA) or the Ulster Volunteer Force (UVF). There are even murals concerning the political polices of the USA and the war in Israel because many Belfast residents feel they can relate to the violence in other countries. On both sides of the wall they are quite provocative and some of the artists are celebrities even though the parts they played were criminal. In among it all you can also find advertisements for local businesses or sporting heroes and some that are just pieces of art for art's sake.
The beautifully restored Clonard Monastery was displaying the colours of the novena as were a number of the houses. The Catholic Church on Falls Rd is famous for drawing pilgrims from across Northern Ireland every June for the annual Festival of Faith and the nine successive days of services known as the Novena.
We crossed through the gates of the peace wall and on the Protestant side saw one of the many bonfires being built from storage pellets that will be lit on July 11th and 12th to celebrate the victory at the Battle of the Boinne where William the Orange was victorious. Every year, even with the ceasefire in place, tensions flare around the anniversary and the marchers are often quite provocative stirring up long held allegiances.
After the tour we took a stroll around the city centre as we had noticed there were plenty of beautiful buildings to be found.
On the left is the Opera House and on the right the mammoth Town Hall with a memorial to the Titanic disaster in the foreground.
On Kenny's advice, later that morning we took the picturesque coast drive to Bushmills along the A1 enjoying the occasional castles, quaint cottages, green hills and tree-lined roadsides, stopping for a light lunch at Glenarm Castle Walled Gardens and Tearooms. The gardens were first established in the 1820's to supply the castle with fresh fruit and vegetables but now supply the tearooms and excel in flowerbeds.
Bushmills is Ireland's oldest whiskey distillery. In 1608 a royal license was granted to distil 'uisce breatha' (water of life in Gaelic). Eric enjoyed the tour which showed the crafting of the product from special water from the St Columb's Rill, the triple distillation in copper stills and then ageing in oak casks that have previously stored sherry, port, madeira or bourbon.
We wandered down to the village to have dinner at the Distiller's Arms, passing by the water powered Corn Mill on the bank of the Bush River. In the past there were seven mills and five distilleries but with the advent of steam, gas and electricity power supplies the village went into decline. Only Bushmill's Distillery remains from those hay days.
Walking down the Main Street on the way home it was evident that many of the derelict buildings had been upgraded with photographic artwork panels placed in the windows and doors. It turns out this is part of the Brighter Bushmills Project designed to improve the streetscape and portray the village heritage which it certainly has achieved.
Wednesday 17th
We woke to the sound of birds and light rain. Fortunately the showers are only forecast for the morning so after breakfast we drove to the ruins of Dunseverick Castle. From here we walked east along the rugged shoreline to Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge which would be about 13 kms.
At times the wind was fierce and we were glad of our Japara jackets and hoods but the rain held off so that was a blessing. The coast is spectacular, something like the shipwreck coast of Victoria but on a grander scale. The green hillsides dotted with sheep give way to huge basalt cliffs and spectacular rock formations. The trail lead at times through fields, over rocky shores and along white beaches. We came across a number of little harbours and one had a quaint little coffee shop that was just a perfect rest stop.
The rope bridge that was our end point was once used by salmon fishermen and it must have been quite something to traverse it shouldering many kgs of wet fish, but for us today it was not much of a challenge when compared to the length and heights of the suspension bridges we have done in Nepal.
We caught a shuttle bus back to our starting point and after lunch at The Smuggler's Inn, visited the Giants Causeway and Visitor Centre. This is a landmark we have read about, of folklore fame, to classes at MAE. It is hard to believe that these regular, closely packed, hexagonal rock columns are a natural feature. No wonder they are the stuff of folklore.
This is another UNESCO world heritage site, formed 60 million years ago when a thick layer of lava flowed along a valley in the existing chalk beds. As it cooled and hardened it contracted like mud does on a drying lake bed. Centuries later the sea has encroached on the land, submerging most of the basalt columns and now the far end can be found at the shoreline of the southern islands of Scotland. By the time we had walked all over them we were feeling pretty weary and footsore so went home for a rest before dinner at the Distiller's Arms again. Eric was snoring in bed as I was updating this.
Thursday 18th
We drove to Londonderry, better known it seems as just Derry. As you enter the city, the first thing you see is the 'Hands Across the Divide' monument. This striking bronze sculpture of two men reaching out to each other symbolises the spirit of reconciliation and hope for the future. The second sculpture to catch our attention (actually there are 3 of them strategically placed around the walls) consisted of two identical cast-iron figures joined back-to-back. They are placed in such a way that one faces into the walled city, and the other outside. In simple terms, it can be said that the sculptures represent Derry's two dominant religious communities, turning away from each other, but paradoxically joined as one body. They are separated by their religious, cultural and political differences, but united in their Christianity and their shared location.
The centre is within the old walled city, the only one in Ireland to still be intact. We completed a walk around the walls and saw some of the amazing buildings, mostly churches of the day.
Beyond the walls we could see the Bogside to the west which developed in the 19th and 20th centuries as a working class, Catholic residential area. A ghetto of more than 30,000 submerged in poverty and unemployment, a hotbed of discontent. Site of the Bloody Sunday massacre, the area has since been redeveloped and only houses about 8,000 people, yet still hardly a tree exists there. It is just asphalt and slate roofs of small terrace houses bumper to bumper. There are a number of street art installations here too which can be clearly seen as you walk the walls.
We drove on to Enniskillen where we stopped for lunch. It sits on a small stretch of land between the Upper and Lower Lough Erne. It also boasts some lovely buildings.
At the Crown Bar in Belfast we had been told to visit Blake's of the Hollow here, so we were just doing what we were told. It was another very authentic pub with marble topped bar, whiskey casks, brass lamps and snugs. Downstairs, where they used to bottle the beer and whiskey we found the restaurant.
We drove on through a fabulous valley to eventually finish the day at Rusheen Bay House in Galway. It has turned out to be a lovely sunny afternoon and so we took a quick walk around the bird sanctuary across the road and around the waters edge. It might be sunny but it isn't warm enough to swim. Well we didn't think so, but the locals are a hardy bunch it seems.
Then we headed into town for dinner. What I notice first is that all the jewelers sell the Claddagh ring which is a traditional Irish ring; the hands represent friendship, the heart represents love and the crown represents loyalty. The design and customs associated with it originated in the Irish fishing village of Claddagh, located just outside the old city walls of Galway, now part of Galway City.
It turns out we have arrived in the middle of the Gallway Sessions Festival which celebrates Irish folk and traditional music and the music Irish emigrants took with them across the world. Local performers from the Connemara region and further afield play at scheduled times in the downtown venues. We caught Flat Out in Taaffe's Bar. We are not adjusting easily to being able to walk out of a bar at 10:30 pm and still find it is daylight. Very confusing.
Friday 19th
What to do? What to miss out on. The Aran Islands are just a 40 min ferry ride away and promise to be what Ireland used to be, then there is the Connemara to the northwest or Cliffs of Moher and Burren area just south. We went into town again in the morning and sorted my technology problems in Eyre Square Shopping Centre before driving out to the Connemara. It was sunny when we ate breakfast but by the time we got ourselves out to the Sky Loop it was so overcast we were driving through cloud. Apparently the views are spectacular and you need to have nerves of steel to manage the steep drop to the Atlantic. It didn't scare us, we could barely see 5m in front, let alone down. That's Eric checking out the map at Clifden Bay and below him the view we had. The view on the right is the jaw-dropping, panoramic view we were hoping for of the Atlantic seascape. You've got to laugh.
Well I was until I managed to get a bit car sick. We had more luck finding Kylemore Abbey and had lunch in the tea rooms before exploring the castle, church and walled gardens, all of which were beautifully maintained or restored.
Joining a guided tour of the home we learnt some of the fascinating 150 year history that began when a doctor from Harley St, London, who had also inherited a great deal from his father's estate, built this castle on a 15,000 acre estate for his wife, as a seasonal hunting holiday home. After having 9 children she suddenly died in 1874 while they were holidaying overseas and he had her body brought back to the estate to be laid to rest in the mausoleum. He then built a neogothic church as a memorial to her. (He died in 1910 and his ashes are buried here too). In 1903 the estate was sold to the Duke of Manchester but he was a gambler and lost the entire estate in a game when he was down on his luck. In 1920, refugee Benedictine nuns fleeing France, took up residency (hence the name abbey) and opened an international boarding school which continued to 2010. The nuns remain in residence, as directors of the trust, and service the people who work and visit. Unfortunately it rained for the entire length of our visit but we were pretty well prepared, it only cost us the price of one more poncho. The 6 acre walled garden was so colourful and well ordered. Being a doctor he had herbs for both culinary and medicinal purposes and hothouses for all manner of plants including bananas and grapes, here! A walk through the woodlands dominated by Ash, Oak and Cyprus trees would have been nice on a fine day, but the rain just wouldn't stop so it was back on the road to complete the rest of the loop.
Our knock out favourite stop on the return leg was the pretty village of Cong which was the location for the filming of 'The Quiet Man' a John Wayne movie, but more interesting to us were the abbey ruins and garden surrounds where many were trout fishing in the clearest river I have ever seen.
We returned to Galway and swapped our damp clothes for some dry ones before heading out to dinner downtown again. The place was pumping and we found a table in the Spanish Arch Hotel for a delightful meal and good music. The Spanish Arch was originally an extension of the city wall from Martin's Tower to the bank of the Corrib River, as a means to protect the city's quays. They had a promotion on for Savannah Cider so that's how I finished the night, or it finished me. Tomorrow is forecast for a nice day.
Saturday 20th
We have been so looking forward to viewing the Cliffs of Moher, not just because of the magical vista but for 20 seabird species, this is their nesting colony and this is the best time of year to find them home. The cliffs rise vertically more than 200m from the Atlantic Coast but guess what, once again we could see no more than 5m ahead once we got there! We had left home in glorious sunshine and it looked like it was going to be perfect. The first thing that went wrong was that we discovered we had chosen the same Saturday to do the loop drive as the annual Tour of the Burren cycle race. The An Post Tour de Burren is a fantastic road cycling event which starts in Ballyvaughan and takes in many stunning scenic locations around North Clare. There are four routes to choose from so you are guaranteed to find a route to suit you, and to be causing issues for the drivers whatever option they take. Unfortunately we had to share the very narrow road the whole way with cyclists which made driving challenging and required a great deal of concentration and patience on Eric's behalf. I was not registered as a driver of the rental car so he is doing it all. If we had realised at the time how much driving we would be doing each day we would have registered both of us.
Despite the busy road though, the scenery was fabulous. We loved the roadside wildflowers, the stony hillsides, occasional thatch roofed houses, the valleys stretching down to the Atlantic covered in a patchwork of green fields bordered by stone fences.
We stopped off at Dunguaire Castle (above) just outside the colourful coastal village of Kinvara (below).
Next stop was the ruins of Corcomroe Abbey, picturesquely sited among the grey hills. We found it astonishing because the grounds were so beautifully tended. Perhaps it is used for functions like weddings still. We were delighted to find an adult and 2 fledgling Eurasian Kestrals there, haven't otherwise seen many birds at all yet. That was our last stop until we reached the cliffs, by then the cyclists had become such an issue we were discouraged from pulling over.
After our disappointing stop at the cliffs and the overcrowded Cliffs Visitor Centre we had lunch at Stonecutters Kitchen just outside Doolin. The Burren, to put it simply, is rocky country; acres and acres of limestone pavement stones covering the rolling hills. Everytime you turn a corner there is another stunning view. The fissures between the rocks are perfect for wild flowers so the place must be amazing in spring, we would be seeing the last of them yet there are still plenty.
Sunday 21st
After breakfast we drove south, skirting Limerick and on to Tralee for coffee, where every August it is home to the famous Rose of Tralee Festival. We could hear bagpipes playing as we scouted the parks for a toilet block. There was a band competition scheduled for later in the day. On the way we paused at Adare, a heritage village where the streets are lined with original thatched cottages which have survived for hundreds of years. Some of the cottages are kept by local restaurants and Arts & Crafts shops, but many are still privately owned. The upkeep must be enormous and heartbreaking when fire destroys them.
We also explored a ringfort at Fahan. Built of stone, they resemble beehives and were inhabited from ancient times to 1200 AD. The inhabitants were free farmers of the early Christian period who would have used them not only as homes but protection for their small herds and safe storage. We couldn't believe the craftsmanship to build these roofed structures using only stone.
So many Irish towns are beautifully presented with sometimes surprisingly colourful homes and shops and we found Kenmare was another one in keeping. We checked in at the Coachmans Hotel and discovered the room was bigger than anything we had ever stayed in.
Monday 22nd
Not a long drive today and anyway all those cyclists should be in the office working until next weekend. Padraig, our host, suggested taking a small loop back to Killarney in the morning which took us up to Moll's Pass and down through the Black Valley. Here we came across the first of the many horse and trap drivers who like to think they own the road. Patience was the order of the day. They call these jaunting cars and the drivers are jarveys. Very few cyclists today but plenty of sheep. You have no idea how difficult it is to select images to complete this blog, there are so many we have taken on just this one day alone and they are all worthy of inclusion.
The scenery was breathtakingly beautiful all the way to Killarney where we parked opposite the imposing St Mary's Cathedral then went for a walk through the Killarney National Park near Ross Castle. The park is over 10,000 hectares so jaunty would be a good way to see more of it that we did, but we enjoyed the stroll and opportunity to identify some birds as we followed the stream to Lough Leane. Apart from birds we saw deer for the first time.
Then we drove on to the , still in the NP. The house is over 200 yrs old and has sweeping gardens down to the lake. We walked all over the walled garden and down to the lake. In 1932 it was presented by William Bowers Bourn and Arthur Rose Vincent to the Irish nation. It then became the first National Park in the Republic of Ireland and formed the basis of the present day Killarney National Park. On the estate visitors can see three separate working farms, each complete with animals, poultry and machinery where all farming activities are still carried out using horsepower and traditional farm machinery. We just enjoyed the gardens,lakeside and cafe.
Driving back to Kenmare along the N71 took us past spectacular views of the three lake system, through natural rock tunnels and back to Moll's Pass where we had lunch at the Avoca Cafe, enjoying the views and the scrumptious food.
Returning to town we picked up a Kenmare town map and walked the heritage trail. The most interesting stop was at the Stone Circle which is thought to have been built in the Bronze Age, about 2000 - 200 BC. They have found over 100 of these in the south west of Ireland and this one is the biggest. It is thought they were built for ritual and ceremonial purposes, possibly orientated on solar and lunar events (this one the setting sun).
After all that walking it was time to put the feet up with a cup of tea in our spacious room. We booked in for dinner at the Coachmans again because they had Michael O'Brien and Sean O'Connor playing. Michael is a famous accordion player and they play all over Ireland. Their banter between songs with each other and the audience was as amusing as the songs were at times lyrical and sad or foot-tappingly energetic. Great night but what struck us both as unusual was to see three generations of locals all enjoying the same music. You just don't see that where we come from.
Tuesday 23rd
It seems to us the people in this south west corner of the country are more cheerful, friendlier if that's possible and genuinely interested in whoever they meet. We are constantly being asked where we are from, where we've been and where we're going next. And it feels genuine, I've never shaken hands so often. On checking out we met Padraig's daughter and he explained that he had been born right there in the pub that his parents owned and now he and his sister Siobhan run together. Even though the interior is modern it still has the traditional Irish pub feel and we enjoyed our stay there very much. Before leaving town we stopped off at the Three Musicians Sculpture by the water's edge; a group of three limestone statues, showing stylized figures of three musicians playing the bodhran, the Irish bouzouki and the accordion.
We drove south to Glengarriff, on the way calling in at the Bonane Heritage Park to see more archeological sites dating from the Stone, Bronze and Iron ages. Along a 2km gravelled pathway in the park we found a combination of Ring forts (fortified dwelling and farmstead), stone circle and burial boulders, Bullaun stones (large flat topped rock where a basin has been carved out, the original purpose of which is largely unknown) and standing stones.
We are so enamored by this coastal region that today we drove around the Ring of Beara, over the Caba Pass and through the stone tunnels then pretty much completed a figure of eight crossing the Slieve Miskish Mountains again on the Healy Pass between Adrigole and Lauragh.
We went all the way down to the most westerly point to see the cable car to Dursey Is. This is the only way to make the crossing and cattle take priority in the cabin which swings precariously 30m above the water. This would have been the last piece of land the passengers on the ill-fated Titanic's maiden voyage would have seen. Once again we have taken countless pictures of fantastic scenery that really won't show how spectacular it all is. And no cycle event!
We drove back via Castletownbere and on to Cork. We are staying at the Garnish B&B, highly recommended by friends in Darwin and we've been upgraded to an apartment so no complaints. Cork is a small city with a big history. It sits on an island in the middle of the River Lee and most of the streets are one way which means it is easier to get around on foot. Besides, Eric has had enough of driving today. And for once it is a lovely warm afternoon. The city's history is deeply wrapped up in the republican cause and some of the streets are named in honour of famous republicans. Two of its previous Lord Mayors died for the cause; one murdered by the Black and Tans, the other from a hunger strike in Brixton Prison. On our afternoon walk we found the old indoor English Market specialising in fresh produce. We sought information about rental bikes at the Tourist Info then made our way back home via the off license where we picked up a bottle of wine to share later with a take-away at the apartment. At 9:30pm I took a photo of the neighbour out in her garden dead-heading the rose bushes and pruning because it is still broad daylight.
Wednesday 24th
I thought we had already had the biggest breakfasts ever but today the choice was even grander. Our hostess made sure no one left without being completely sated. Fuelled-up, our first stop was Blarney Castle, only 8kms from Cork. As we walked toward it from the carpark the sound of the harp drifted towards us, setting the mood.
It is home to the Blarney Stone and you've just got to join the queue if you've come this far. It is believed those who kiss it will be conferred with eloquence, the ability to talk pleasantly yet with the intention of deceiving without offending. Not baloney! Anyway, it is no doubt a load of shite but we all laid down, bent over backwards and kissed it just the same. It was a good thing we did that first, as the queue just grew longer and longer. In the line, as you move slowly to the top, up the spiral staircase, you appreciate how much taller we are now as you have to keep your head ducked much of the way.
In the grounds of the castle we wandered through the ancient trees and beautifully kept gardens, by the magnificent house of the current owner and out through the woods.
We drove on to Midleton and joined a tour of the old distillery at Jameson Brewery. Our guide explained the processes that have remained time honoured for more than 200 years including using a mix of barley and corn, triple distilling and then barrelling in oak casks that have held either Spanish sherry or American bourbon when they were imported. These barrels have also been toasted or charred over wood fires at some point to add to the flavour. They have the biggest copper pot stills in the world here and a giant water wheel which once powered the whole process. All very interesting even to a non whiskey drinker and I did decide a Jameson's with dry ginger ale and lemon is quite good.
Then it was on to Cobh where St Coleman's Cathedral dominates the view of the harbour, the second largest natural harbour in the world after Sydney. It is perhaps most well known as the last place of departure for the Titanic which anchored at the mouth of the harbour on April 11th, 1912. It was from here that the ship sailed west towards her tragic fate in the icy waters of the North Atlantic.
Thursday 25th
We checked out then took a stroll along the river past an enormous old building on the opposite bank. Intrigue got the best of us and I had to ask a local who explained it was the District Asylum which opened in 1789 and by 1652 was expanded to hold 500 beds. After being closed and abandoned for 25 years it is being renovated into apartments. We didn't find many birds along the river, must say the birdwatching opportunities have been pretty disappointing in Ireland; too many LBJs (little brown jobs for the non-twitches among the readers).
Before leaving Cork we also visited the grounds of the University College Cork, one of the three campuses of the National University of Ireland and well over 150 years old. George Boole was the first professor of mathematics here. He developed Boolean algebra that would later make computer programming possible. We walked through to the Honan Chapel which had richly coloured stained glass windows and beautiful mosaic tiled floors. Then we went to the Glucksman Gallery to see the Stitch in Time exhibition. This is a textile collection showing contemporary life. The most extraordinary exhibit was the Knitting Map which was a collaborative project involving more than 2000 knitters and motion sensing technologies in Cork.
We drove on to Kilkenny and checked in at O'Malleys B&B. After a short rest we went out to walk the medieval mile which runs through the heart of Kilkenny linking the castle to the cathedral. We were quickly sidetracked though by all the fabulous old buildings, laneways and pubs. That is our B&B top left and where we ended up for the evening at Kytlers Inn at the bottom.
On recommendation we went to hear traditional music and see dancing at Kyteler's Inn (Est. 1324 but dating back into the1260s). It was first established by Dame Alice de Kyteler in the 13th century and so is one of the oldest inns in Ireland. Its first owner occupies a special place in Irish history being the daughter of a Norman banker, Alice de Kyteler married four times and in the process amassed a considerable fortune and a duke fo a husband. Local jealousies abounded and she was eventually accused of witchcraft and sentenced to be burned for acts of witchcraft. Her excellent connections with local gentry however, ensured that she was ‘spirited’ out of the country to England before the execution could take place. She apparently disappeared. Not so her accomplices who were whipped and then burnt. Over the intervening centuries, the fortunes of Kytelers Inn ebbed and flowed but with the growing popularity of the city as a visitor destination, Kyteler’s Inn has once again become a popular nightspot for local music. Early in the evening they have a 3 piece band accompanied by traditional dancers, something I was keen to see but haven't had a chance yet. After dinner a second 2 piece entertained us until late.
After checking out we walked downtown and did a self guided tour of the Kilkenny Castle. In its lifetime it has gone from being the fortress of the Butler family (a very powerful line in terms of the English royalty) to a chateau and then to fall into disrepair and now enjoy a complete refurbishment in the hands of the town council. Centrally located on a street in the present township, it is easily accessible to everyone and locals can be found enjoying a swing with a hurling stick or having a picnic.
We walked to the other end of the medieval mile through town to St Canice's Cathedral and round tower. I doubt there's a better place for a wander than Kilkenny City, with its medieval cobbled streets and old-world charm. Then Eric did a tour of the Smithwick's Brewery, the home of original Kilkenny Ale, and I went window shopping.
Those beams (on the right above) are security to protect the original yeast plant that they still faithfully use. I found the Black Abbey and The Hole In The Wall pub in my travels. This is Kilkenny's renowned 18th century tavern, housed in the oldest surviving townhouse in Ireland - the 1582 Archer Inner House but closed at this time of the day. Then, despite crossed wires and a wasted hour, we eventually met up again and headed out of town on the road to Dublin.
This time the navigator did a sterling job to get us to the Celtic Guesthouse, Dublin, despite earlier abuse which will not be mentioned again. We decided to join the walking tour the next day so in the afternoon we visited Trinity Library and went to the Book of Kells exhibition. Hitting the streets on foot, we were astonished by the size of the Millenium Spire; a large, stainless steel, pin-like monument over 120 m in height, located just a 2 blocks away at the intersection of our street (Talbot St) and O'Connell St. An artist was putting the finishing touches to a huge canvas on the pavement as a leprechaun looked on.
Trinity College wasn't far and we turned up on graduation day for one of the schools, we were not sure which, but there was plenty of joy to be shared. The book of Kells exhibition was outstanding. Not being very religious it was not ever really on my list of 'must do's' but it was on Eric's, being more of a historian than me. I have to admit now that I am very glad to have seen it. Amazing privilege to get to see something so historically and culturally valuable. What lengths they went to, to preserve it. How much the scribes must have loved it to have vested so much time and effort into its immaculate presentation. Two of the four volumes are on public display, one opened to a major decorated page and the other to a typical page of text. After the exhibition we wandered through the library itself, marvelling at its collection and the beauty of its structure in the hushed environs. We enjoyed the grounds in the sunshine, walking through a mix of modern and very old architecture.
On the way back to our neighbourhood we took a detour through Temple Bar, the big pub scene of Dublin. Soon decided we didn't need to stay here and pay tourist prices though, so just had one drink then walked back to our end of town and had a pub meal at O'Sheas then crashed.
Saturday 27th
We joined a Sandemans free 3 hr walk of Dublin which took us to the castle, Trinity College, Temple Bar, Christ Church Cathedral and more. Our guide James entertained us with a brief history, cultural insights and numerous funny anecdotes. He did his best to make sure everyone in the group enjoyed it - had some fun, some craic. The Irish are certainly good at finding the funny side of things. As he explained, the spire was installed in one of Ireland's few good times, they spent millions on it but it gets nicknames like the 'Stiffy on the Liffey' and 'Stilletto in the Ghetto' (north side of the river is the wrong side apparently). From the history of Dublin Castle to the street almost completely owned by U2 we saw a lot (see below).
We finished at St Stephen's Green then Eric went to the Guinness Tour and I made my way to Merrion Square to see the finish of the Gay Pride Parade. It was very entertaining; so many people celebrating and feeling very positive after the recent referendum. And just yesterday in the USA, there was the Supreme Court decision to invalidate bans on same-sex marriage so that would have added to the sense of acceptance and acknowledgement.
We both ended up back at the Celtic Lodge within half an hour of each, other happy but a bit footsore. We had an early dinner in O'Sheas again and then re-packed our bags for the flight to London early tomorrow. As we were packing we realised the phone was missing. Searching proved fruitless.
Sunday 28th
Neither of us slept well. There was a lot of noise in the street (maybe it was just Saturday night or perhaps the aftermath of the parade) but the worst was the lost phone. We just couldn't believe it wasn't to be found, in the room, back at reception or in the restaurant. No phone, no directions to the airport, easy access for someone to get into our email, Eric's Facebook ..... Not a lot of sleep, it was almost a relief to get the 5:30am wake up call and feel like we were moving forward. And then I had the bright idea to have reception call it and it was found, never lost at all, just tucked away in a safe place. The trip to the airport and return of the hire car was very simple and we were on our way. Farwell Ireland, we've loved it.
Irish Reflections
An island of green, rocky hillsides dotted with sheep
Colourful roadside verges of buttercups, daisies, fuchsia, hollyhocks and more
Music that even a cripple would find themselves toe-tapping to
Neat villages with houses painted every vibrant colour of the rainbow
Genuinely friendly people
Pubs that serve their first pints at 9 am in the back bar, even though officially they don't open until 10:30
That everyone enjoys Irish music; the old, the young, the locals, the visitors.
That the Irish Bars have an exhaustive whiskey menu but a very slim wine selection
Being swamped by heavy doonas
LONDON you just cant mistake it for anywhere else!
From Gatwick we caught the train to St Pancras and walked to our hotel. All very easy and not raining which was a bonus. After checking in and freshening up with a shower we went straight to the British Museum, something we have been wanting to do after missing out 30 years ago, when we were last here. And it was all we expected even though we only had the one afternoon. Being short on time, we did the highlights self-guided tour. Eric loved the Greek and Roman exhibits, I was amazed by the magnitude of the collection. How do they manage to have so much of the Greek Pantheon here? All the best bits?
My feet were killing me by the time we walked home and no one is going to mention the fact that Eric misread the map. Oh, there's more to navigating than some people realise apparently. Returning to St Pancras on the way, we had great views of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel next door. It was originally built in 1873, in conjunction with the station, to accommodate travelers but later fell into disrepair, was used as rail officers for some time then abandoned. It took a decade of restoration to uncover the fabulous structure and it is now has a 5 star rating once again. Guess what, we're not staying there! We're at the Ibis up the road and it is quite comfortable. After an early dinner we were home and in bed before sunset again!
Monday 29th
We head home today. What, so soon? After a much better sleep we had breakfast, checked out and walked over the road to Euston Station. After a brief moment of confusion at the extensive underground network, we found our way to St Jame's Park Stn and from there began a walk through the park to St Jame's Palace Palace before doubling back to Buckingham Palace. We were amazed by the size of the crowd there waiting to see the changing of the guard in another half hour.
We continued on around the mews and into Hyde Park. Just as we arrived at the gates the mounted guards were making their way through, heading to the change parade at the palace. The gardens were in full bloom and we were amused by the squirrels and flocks of geese and ducks on the Serpentine. So different to our last visit here in December 1985 when it was grey, misty and bare.
From there we walked by the amazing Albert Memorial in Kensington Gardens on Albert Memorial Road opposite the Royal Albert Hall, something we were much more familiar with having watched a number of concerts filmed in there. All the performers have been thrilled to have the opportunity to perform on stage there.
Finally we walked by Kensington Palace and found a number of the foreign embassies were on the same stretch of road. After walking for about 2 hours we jumped on a train at Notting Hill Stn and made our way back to Euston to collect our luggage. We returned to St Pancras Stn and took a connection back to Gatwick. Now we are really on the homeward leg. It was a beautiful, sunny day, about 24 deg and there were announcements at the train stations about the need to rehydrate in these extreme conditions!
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