From Kathmandu to Melbourne via Singapore and back

The flights home were uneventful, despite our late departure we still had plenty of time in KL transit. In Singapore we slept, did the laundry and packed for the next leg to Melbourne.  We were all of about 18 hrs on the ground. Sitting in the departure lounge gave me time to send off a quick Christmas email to all our far-flung friends. We have really enjoyed catching up on the news of those of you who had already sent the Annual Christmas Letter. 

The thrill of excitement I used to experience in Departure Lounges has certainly waned but the good thing about this trip is that at the other end will be our family. Adrian, Luke and Tahlia have all flown to Melbourne and we are going to be sharing a house in Black Rock. My sister Judy lives just around the corner in Beaumaris, my brother Colin is in Mitcham and Mum is still in her own home in Yarra Glen. Eric's brother Kenny is in Talbot and both Laurie and Reg are in Maryborough.   

It was wonderful to be met by Judy and Roger so early in the morning and whisked away to their place without having to queue for a taxi. On the way we stopped off for breakfast at their favourite cafe; we usually share this 'Al fresco' on the wide footpath with the sea breeze taking out the sting of the sun, but that morning it was a bit too chilly and damp outside. Melbourne was looking sullenly grey but the forecast suggests the temperature will improve.  We were not long out of bed as neither of us slept well on the plane. 

Later in the day Luke, Tahlia and Adrian arrived, having spent the night before just outside Moe, in Gippsland, at Tahlia's parent's place. They have been able to borrow a car from Mervyn and Yvonne which gives them independence. Adrian is very unwell with bronchitis but we are just so happy to be able to share this time with them. We moved into the house in Black Rock that we will call home for the next 4 days. It belongs to good friends of Jude and Rog who spend Christmas with family in Sydney each year. This is not the first time we have had the opportunity to use it and their dog Busta knows us well. Our main responsibility is to walk Busta each day, no real chore when the beach is only 2 blocks away. 

The next morning, Christmas Eve, Jude drove me up to Yarra Glen to collect Mum so she wasn't missing out on all the fun. Jude had to drive as my Australian Driver's License has expired and I can't renew it until I front up for a new photo at an NT MVR office. Rog and Eric had been hoping to play golf but unfortunately Eric's cold has kept him in bed. Melbourne has been getting plenty of late Spring and early Summer rain so everything looks lovely and green, so many nature strip trees are in flower and everyone's gardens look vibrant. So different to just a few years ago with the severe water restrictions due to the drought. Mum's garden is no exception, blooming beautiful, and I couldn't leave without taking at least a few beetroot from her vegetable garden. We had coffee down the street before the drive home and I had the opportunity to see the the memorial, constructed by local sculptor Ernst Fries, which honours those who lost their lives in the area when the fires swept through this region in Feb 2009 and celebrating the resilience of the town. It is a massively heavy concrete and stained glass installment in McKenzie Reserve.

Mum spent the afternoon with us and then we shared Eric's soup and Rog's pizzas from the bbq for dinner while watching Carols by Candlelight on tv from the Sidney Myer Music Bowl. Jude has generously lent Eric her car for the next few days.

Col joined us for Christmas lunch at Roger and Jude's the next day, along with their kids Jason and Bec. Eleven of us sat around the lovely table with the doors and windows wide open onto the patio and garden which has been transformed and feels just like another room of the house. It is hard to believe this is the 6th Christmas without Dad, it doesn't feel that long and and in fact I had a good sense that he was smiling at the thought of us all being together. Roger shared a poem with us that recommended we all slow down, do a slow dance through life, and don't miss the things that really matter. 

The next day we reconvened around the same table to celebrate Mums 90th birthday. In fact her birthday is on New Year's Day but we have to return to Singapore before then as Eric has work commitments on the 31st Dec. This time we were joined by Col's partner Beth and three of his 4 children, Liz, Nathanial and Anna who also bought her partner Yarran. The eldest son James is living with his family out of Brisbane and will spend time with Mum in January. So, we expanded to 17 around the table as Jason's fiance Georgie was also able to join us. It was a wonderful celebration of life; Mum held court at the head of the table, reminiscing about her childhood, until a phone call from James interrupted her. Maybe that was a good thing as her long term memory is still phenomenal and we might only be up to her teenage years if it hadn't been for him. We each had a chance to speak about the impact she had made on each of our lives.  There were many qualities that were mentioned but the most common thread was her dogged determination and strength of character, sense of community and love of her family.  And we all love her for it.

At some point, while I was travelling out to bush schools in the NT and spending lonely nights in crappy accommodation, I began writing up my memories of growing up on the dairy farm at Dixon's Creek. I think I initially did it with my own children in mind because I felt they had no way of relating to what it was like to be a country kid in Australia in the 60's. This year when Judy visited we got talking about memories and I told her what I had once started but not revisited since. As we laughed about shared memories we came up with the idea of collaborating, and then that grew into including Col and before you know it we now have a Google doc on which we are all contributing, even our children are contributing at least what they said around the birthday table.  I was tickled when Adrian mentioned Mum's generosity to those in need and how that has transferred to the extended family including the one who 'is willing to purchase discarded chip packets from Nepal that have been transformed into decorations in order to help put food on someone’s table who doesn't enjoy the same benefits we do in our country'. Now I wonder who that could be? It will be shared with Mum on her actual birthday and she will have the editing rights as she probably does better at remembering than any of us. Thanks to Bec's recent photo compilation she put together for Jude's birthday this year, we were also able to include some images which help to bring it to life.  

The next day we drove to Ballarat to meet up with Eric's family. Adrian came with us but Luke and Tahlia were meeting up with her family at Phillip Is. Should be a lovely day there as the weather is sunny, even in Ballarat. Luke and Tahlia just seem so relaxed and happy together, we are very happy for them. Laurie had arranged for Kenny and Reg and Alison to come too, which was an unexpected surprise. Laurie and Sue also had two of their sons Matthew and Adam with wife Sarah and child from Sydney with them. The only son missing was Nathan who is in Melbourne. 

After lunch at Oscars we went up to the park at lake Wendouree where both Eric and I once had to demonstrate our prowess at canoeing to pass courses at Teachers College. I also did rowing and sailing. We both vividly recall the freezing, murky water and creepy feeling of all those water-weeds tangling around your ankles as you demonstrated the capsize drill. But today we can just soak up the sunshine and watch the kids enjoying the fabulous play equipment before a coffee in Piper's Cafe and then all hitting the different roads home. It seems Smith boys will always prefer to puddle in water though.

We returned to Black Rock where Adrian packed and after watching the 20-20 cricket we drove him back into the city to catch a Skybus to the airport for his red-eye flight back to Darwin. He has some big decisions to make in the next few weeks about his future and it has been so good to be involved in the discussions. It was good to be sending him home looking and sounding much healthier too.  

Early the next morning we dropped the car back at Beaumaris and caught a taxi to the airport. Eric has done a wonderful job navigating all over the place and we are really grateful for the lend of the car as it gave us the independence we needed without the added expense of hiring. This daytime flight was much easier, and when we arrived at Cherry Hill Condo we were quite relaxed really. Well, that was until I discovered my camera was missing. I had distinct memories of feeling it in my bag on the flight, so felt quite sure it was left on the plane, but......... After unsuccessful calls to Airport Lost and Found I made a police report at Serangoon Station the next morning so I would be able to at least claim it on travel insurance. So cross with myself for having been so careless! 

Am feeling a lot more relaxed this morning. Yesterday, while we were out walking around Chinatown (well it was Monday wasn't it!), I got a call back from Airport Security to say they had found my camera. When we completed the walking trail I took the train back out to the airport and collected it. So, we've washed and put away all the clothes from both trips. Paid the bills and arranged for my ukulele to be delivered today. Google kindly changed one of my pics I had used in the last blog post to a gif which now has a snow falling effect. Not sure how they did that but it made a nice NYE present for Peter and one of our guides who featured in it. You can see it on the blog if you scroll to Dec12. It turned out to be our trek summit so quite an appropriate special effect. We've caught up with some of our colleagues and trekking partners since returning and will do so again tonight as it is NYE. Eric has had to rise early this morning to attend a breakfast meeting with all the new recruits. He will spend some of the day then with two of them out at the Punggol Branch. I'm loving just having the place to myself, not that I haven't really enjoyed the company over the last four weeks but today I just feel indulgent; don't care if I talk to myself, what I look like.....Oh, that's the doorbell. Must be my uke arriving, better tidy myself up. 

ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP (ABC) TREK 2013

Dec 3    Managed to be ready for the taxi at 4:15am after a fairly restless night's sleep. After all that, the plane was delayed about half an hour but we landed safely at KL where I bought a giant crossword book which includes some cryptic clues which Heather believes she can teach me. She and Michael are also on our flight. Onboard we watched 'The Guilded Cage' which featured Porto from Portugal of all places. The last 30 mins of the flight into Kathmandu is amazing for the people sitting on the right of the plane which we had arranged to do. The view of the Himalayas unfolding beneath you is just staggering. Arrived Kathmandu and we were met by two familiar faces: Nava Raj who was our assistant guide last year and Kule who was unavailable that trek, but is on this one. We were whisked pretty quickly through the car park as there looked to be some civil unrest about to unfold, perhaps to do with a bingle. Who would know? There was a growing assembly of men matched by a mass of police in blue camouflage gear holding batons. I was very happy to be gone. We were driven to Potala Guest House only to discover everyone else was out shopping, so we joined them on the streets and then had a snack of momos (dumplings) at the Curry House. In the evening we caught up at reception and completed introductions with the rest of the Chinese contingent and Bob and Rob (a father and son combination) from Geelong who have known Peter for many years. Chen Guang is the husband of Chunjiao who trekked last year. His cousin, who owns several restaurants in China, is Yilong and he has invited along two more chefs Wenbin and Xiudong, and a woman too Jinrong, whose Anglicised name is Maggie. She manages a Traditional Chinese Medicine Clinic in Shanghai. Only James (our work colleague) still to arrive. Of all things, we found a De Bortoli Windy Peak bottle of red in a tiny shop so that set us on the right path for the night. Most of us dined at the Third Eye Restaurant then Peter left to collect James at the airport and the rest of us went to bed, some after a tipple of Porto port we had also found. The Chinese went off to one of the casinos, we didn't even know there was one in town! The bed was wonderfully comfortable, upgraded since last year, and the doona very cosy. 

Dec 4 We met for breakfast in the lobby and then walked to Swayambhu, better known as the Monkey Temple. Walking along the streets outside the tourist zone can be very confronting, especially for the ones who are here for the first time. To see the struggle some of these people endure everyday to earn a living, to manage with a disability, to spend all day in atrocious work conditions is a real eye-opener. You don't need to see images here to know what I mean. This temple has a challenging flight of steps so it is a bit of a warm-up for the days ahead. The skies were much clearer than last year and we had a good view of the surrounding alps.

After descending we were bused to Pashupati Temple, one of the most revered temples in the world worshipped both by Hindus and Buddhists. It is on the banks of the Bagmati River and is the site where Hindus are cremated. 

Then we were bused to Boudhanath, one of the largest stupas and holiest Buddhist sites in Kathmandu. We enjoyed a lovely lunch on the rooftop terrace. We were looking straight at the stupa and could see the locals going about their prayer routines. 

We were dropped back at the guesthouse and had time to hire sleeping bags, pack for tomorrow's trek and grab last minute supplies. Eric and I, along with Heather and Michael, helped Peter set up the bags of scroggin for the days ahead. We all went for dinner on the rooftop at Helena's, but this year it was much warmer than last. We remember that well! Our bags and valuables we are leaving in Kathmandu were left in the lobby overnight and we had our last easy hot shower and cosy night's sleep on a good mattress for a while we expect. 

COMMENCE TREK

Day 01_Dec 5    Early breakfast in the morning before transferring to the domestic airport and flying out to Pokhara on Yeti Airlines. They advertise 'Fly on time' but we left about an hour late, which is not unusual. I got out the ukulele and had a bit of fun, I was even thrown money! We caught up with June Hughes who trekked with us last year (another work colleague on a working holiday) at the airport, she was about to fly out at the same time as us but in a chopper to Salleri.  

We took a 2 hr bus trip to Nayapul and met up with all the porters who have traveled from Gudel. Among them is Dipendra, the son of Ratna who walked last year. Ratna has now retired from porter work and is farming. Dan Bahaja, who took such good care of me last year, has also retired from treks and is working in Gudel as a butcher. Dan Kubier is another who is no longer doing treks. Oshan, Narendra's son is with us again, as is Biba.

We walked on for about half an hour to Birethanti. That provided us with a good rest in the sun and we got the Whacker Award started. Bob won it for leaving his passport at the airport on arrival in Kathmandu and having to return to collect it. 

We trekked on for a further 2 and a half hours to Tikhedhunga (1540m) overnight. Got out the ukulele and with Peter we strummed a few ditties before dinner in the common room. The Chandra Guest House provided us with a 3 course meal in a common room we had to ourselves. How good is that? Can we expect it every night? We were given the double room just off the common room so didn't even need to venture outside. Hey, and there is a pedestal toilet down the passage. 

Day 02_Dec 6   Awoke early to pack and have breakfast at 7:00am at the hotel and depart at 7:45am. First Bob awarded Wacker to Bev for not knowing what a whacker was.  We crossed a small suspension bridge then started to climb uphill through small villages and forest which took about 8 hours. The morning was really tough, just constant up so the rest at lunchtime in the sun was really appreciated. We saw a few birds today while we were resting, not so many on the up, too busy looking at my feet. After lunch it wasn't quite so hard to Ghorepani (2870m),  well that's what they kept telling us but, by the time we got there, I was exhausted. Good news is our room has the flue from the potbellied stove on the ground floor, bad news is we have to climb stairs to the 3rd floor. Today was expected to be the hardest day and I hope that's right. Bev awarded the whacker to Chen Guang for pretending to be a blind man when he put on his new sunglasses and using his pole as a guide pole. 

Day 03_ Dec 7   Woke up early in the morning at 5:00am to climb up to Poon Hill lookout (3210m) for the sunrise and to see the panorama of mountain views. We were walking with just headlamps and the ice beneath our feet sparkled like the Milky Way. The 2 hours up was a bit treacherous but well worth the effort for those of us who made it. The panorama included Machhapuchhure (Fishtail 6993m), Annapurna South(7219m), Annapurna One(8091m) and Dhaulagiri I (8167m). It was beautiful to see the first rays of sunlight begin to light up peaks to the west the and then the sun rise above the horizon to the east. 

We returned to the hotel to have a well earned breakfast and packed then began the day's trek up and down hill through rhododendron and pine forest to Tadapani, (2710m) overnight. Our elevation hasn't increased but it feels colder being so close to the ice covered peaks. We stayed at the Panorama Guesthouse which has another common room on the first floor but we have to go down and then back up again to get there. My feet and knees are complaining. Eric is having a nap before dinner so he must be a little weary too. The whacker was awarded to Peter because no one trusts his time keeping, apparently he is on Nepali time. After dinner we showed a few of the boys how to play UNO and then Peter and I jammed on the ukes again. We are sounding better but have a long way to go. At least he has a good singing voice and sometimes I just let him drown us out. Another early night.

Day 04_Dec 8   Woken at 6:30am to pack and have breakfast before an 8:00am start to walk about 700m down hill to Kimrung khola (river side) and about 100m uphill to Larjung for lunch. That downhill was getting pretty difficult after 3 hours but the forest opened often for us to see inspiring views of Machhapuchhure (Fishtail). From there it is was mostly Nepali Flat (up and downhill) to Chhomrong, (2210m) overnight in Kalpana Lodge. The second half of the day was around hillsides terraced for growing barley. In the forests of the last 2 days we have come across families of black faced langurs and plenty of birds though being smaller they are more difficult to find. One large one though, often soaring above, we suspect is the leggenhimer vulture, we can only spot it in flight but it is enormous. We are not prepared to stay still with it circling overhead. The best thing about Chhomrong is that the resident masseur is free for bookings and as we walked into the lodge at 3pm, so did he. I had a 20 min foot reflexology treatment which took care of my tight calves as well. Sensational! For dessert tonight Parbat cooked an enormous chocolate cake. After all 16 of us had had enough there was still more than half left for our support team to share. Amazing. Peter awarded whacker to Yi Loong because he snores so loudly yet then woke everyone too early. I was lucky to escape with just a nomination after a graceful slide onto my behind and then later having to backtrack to retrieve my poles after leaving them at a drink stop. We played mahjong and Chen Guang taught us a few new combinations using honour tiles. The boys joined in another game of UNO while the rest of the Chinese played blackjack. The common room was cosy due to a kerosene heater with open flame placed in a pit below the table and the table edge had blankets tacked to the edge so you draped that over your knees allowing the heat to rise. The lodge charges each person about $1 for the service. Drinking water, bowl of hot water for a birdbath or power to charge your device all the same cost but it will increase each day as we get higher. 

Day 05_ Dec 9   As usual we were woken for breakfast at 7:00am and started to trek down Dawn Hill, about 150m to Chhorong khola (river side) and 200m uphill and then on to Sinuwa for lunch. Every time you clamber uphill you feel you have achieved something but then you lose it all when you go back down to cross the river. We've walked by many terraces and seen buffalo, goats, and cattle. Noticed one beast being hobbled and downed but had got beyond just in time to miss the worst of the brutal slaughter. After lunch we passed through rhododendron and bamboo forest to Dovan (2505) arriving just before 4pm but it was already getting cold and darkening with very low cloud. We went past a sign asking trekkers not to bring any form of meat into this region so we will be eating vegetarian from this point on. No meat and no beer yet Eric says he is still enjoying himself. Who'd have thought? Overnight at the Hill Top Hotel. The whacker was presented to James for leaving his hat behind although he still believes the Chinese fellows stole it. We played a few tunes on the ukuleles, Eric joining in too. We curl up into the sleeping bags each night and although it is only about 8pm we are almost asleep before our heads hit the pillows. Sleeping bags are much better quality this year and being in beds off the ground and indoors makes a huge difference. How did we do it in tents last year?

Day 06_ Dec 10 Breakfast at 7:00am and then we started gradually uphill following the river to Deurali (3230m) by lunchtime. We had lunch in the sunshine and the rest of the afternoon was free for us to spend however we chose. I quickly washed my hair while the sun was still warm. No wi-fi here unfortunately, I can access the lodge 200 m downhill but I don't have their password. We are resting at this level to acclimatize and rest in preparation for the next two days which see us reach the top all being well. In Kathmandu Eric bought a lovely handmade game of Nepali Chess, otherwise known as Goats and Tigers and Narendra offered to teach him how to play along the way. That's how he spent the afternoon, getting advice from not only Narendra but three other lads as well. 

I played 5 crowns, a game very similar to Australian Rummy, mahjong and the ukulele. Overnight at the Deurali Guesthouse where we used the kerosene heating system again. I think it was this that made me very unwell during the night with vomiting and diahorrea. I wasn't the only one, in all there were 5 of us who were using the squat toilet overtime. Not pretty!

Day 07_ Dec 11  Since today is only a 3 hour hike uphill, we had a later breakfast before departing at 9am. That was an advantage to those not feeling at full strength. I'm ok, but started off with just sweet black tea and toast as much as the usual porridge with fruit and hot milk looked appealing. The other good reason for starting later is that it is seriously cold. As we were leaving we found a towel that had been left out overnight, at 9am it was still frozen stiff. 

We arrived at Machhapuchhure Base Camp (3703m) by lunchtime where I was able to eat the soup and rice like all the others. Climbers once used this Base Camp in attempting to reach Machhapuchhure summit but it was never achieved and after several attempts which resulted in deaths the climb has now been banned. Instead, climbers still use the base camp to attempt other, nearby summits. After lunch at Fishtail Guest House and Restaurant I was able to catch up the sleep I'd missed the night before while others amused themselves in the common room. Meanwhile Eric and several others walked to the ridge to look out over the deep valley. We had wireless access for a change so was able to send off a few emails. Spent the evening in the usual way, sharing the heater of the common room before another very early night. 

Day 08_ Dec 12  Woke up with a screaming headache in the middle of the night. Only good thing about that was having to get up and go out to the toilet where I saw the most amazing cloudless sky strewn with stars against the backdrop of white mountains. 

Drank water and swallowed Pandol but by breakfast call I really didn't think I was going to make it. It must be altitude sickness this time as even the food doesn't taste right, I could eat a little porridge but that's all. Fortunately by 9:00am when we were ready to trek the headache had dulled so I was able to join them for the slow, final about 3 hours to Annapurna Base Camp (4130m). So unlike the final ascent up Silucho Peak last year to the same height. That was steep and at times treacherous up a peak in relative isolation. This was a slow amble up a gentle slope between snow and ice clad mountains. Much of the time we were following a stream which was covered in ice. The sky was as blue as I've ever seen and contrasted beautifully with the pristine white of the ice caps. The grassland has recently been burnt to encourage better regrowth for the yaks when they descend here in the depths of winter. We saw a surprising number of birds considering the lack of vegetation as we are now above the tree line. Unfortunately, James had to turn back, he has been unwell since Durali and Narendra returned with him and one of the porters. We later heard they made it back down to Dovan and we will catch up with them in a few days. 

We arrived about lunchtime and while we basked very briefly in the sun, Eric enjoyed the first beer in 8 days (but who's counting) which encouraged all the other lads to join in amidst calls of "Cheers", "Jaos(Npl)", and "Ganbei(Ch)". Why not celebrate? This is what we came to see, to feel, so we took a few minutes to soak up the pleasure of the moment. After lunch in the dining room we all went up to the ridge to look over the glacier which is carving its way downhill only about 50m from the lodge. 

The clouds were already descending and I didn't stay long; a bird bath and snooze was calling. Some others went off for a special photo-shoot.  Later in the afternoon we had a gentle, light fall of snow. In the evening Eric presented whacker to Heather for suddenly discovering, after all this time, that her neck scarf can convert into a hat. She deserves it just because she has worked so hard to get here. 

Day 09_ Dec 13  Woken early in the morning for sunrise at 6:30am on the same ridge we visited yesterday afternoon. Fortunately the wind was really light and it wasn't as cold as I expected. We couldn't stay long enough to actually see the sun crest the mountains but we were able to see the sun's rays light up the alps to the west. It was beautiful! 

After breakfast at the lodge we trekked back to Dovan, first it was in a soft snowfall, then it became sleet and finally, after lunch, it was raining. It was relentless and made walking quite a challenge, especially if you are being as careful as I am to avoid slipping or twisting. Dovan was a very pleasant sight up ahead at about 4pm. 

We have covered the same distance downhill today (1600m) that took us 3 days to go up. James, who had been too sick to keep going up is here, feeling better and glad of some company. Narendra, who accompanied him back, walked out and met us about 15 mins up the track as we approached in the rain. His smile was so welcome. We were all soaked so the first task was to strip and dress in dry clothes then find any way we could to dry the items. Fat Chance! We shared a gas heater in the dining room which helped somewhat but there was really just too much. Heather awarded the whacker to Rob for having dropped his iPhone in the tub of water placed for flushing the toilet. The boys shared a beer and then an 'Old Stag' Whiskey and coke so Heather and I tried a couple of rum and cokes. While we were doing the crossword we learnt that the term for 'an attentive husband to his wife' is 'uxorious' which cracked us both up and couldn't stop giggling. It is the new term for our trip and Heather and I are still looking for signs. 

Day 10_Dec 14 Woken at 6:30am and very happy to see that the rain has passed. After breakfast we trekked through Bamboo to Sinuwa for a lunch break and the on to Chhomrong, back at the Kalpana Guest House overnight. It was a lovely walk today; cool but fine and the path undulating Nepali Flat with some challenging sections but not too much for us. We are certainly stronger after all these successive days. In the afternoon we were given the option to walk at whatever pace we felt comfortable and I chose to dawdle along with Heather and James towards the back while Eric surged ahead with Peter. We saw plenty of birds, more grey langurs and had the time to identify them and also watched a landslide take place which was quite disturbing.

Narendra was quite sure it happened well away from any buildings or agricultural land. When you see how hard these people have to work to estabIish a field, a pathway and a building you hate to think it might all tumble away in a landslide, let alone loss of life. The largest one apparently took place not long ago, not too far from Pokhara, it was 6.4 kms across! We all managed a hot shower and then assembled for dinner. The Chinese boys invited Eric to join them as they downed shots of spirits, ate raw onions and tuna out of the can. He did it for international relations, he told me, and I suggested he might like to sleep downstairs. The whacker was presented to Maggie for having lost her electronic translator stylus and having all the boys look for it, and then it was found in her room. Peter got the evening entertainment started with a round of Frere Jaque. Then the Chinese entered with their version of the same song, then we sang in rounds. The singing continued with Nepali, Aussie and Chinese all taking it in turns. A very good night. 

Day 11_Dec 15 Woke up at the same time and after breakfast trekked way, way down to Kimrung River and then way, way up to have lunch at Komrong Danda. Once again I hung back with Heather who was struggling today after a bout of diahorrea. 

In the afternoon we trekked on to Ghanduruk, a large township set above wide terraces on a gentle slope. It is the first time we have been in a village this size. Usually all the housing borders the main thoroughfare trail but here there are alleyways leading off on both sides into other housing zones. We were surprised to turn one corner and find men in military and renegade outfits brandishing automatic weapons. It turned out to be a movie set! The Mountain View Hotel is luxurious by our standards, our room is on the third floor overlooking one of the best alpine views in the world and it has an en suite with pedestal toilet! The Penthouse suite. From our balcony which faces west we can see Fishtail and the Annapurna Range. 

Like at a number of the other tourist hotels where we have stayed, there is a Tibetan refugee woman in the courtyard selling trinkets. I bought a few from her and heard her story. She left Tibet with her family as a three year old and has lived in the refugee camp outside Pokhara for 53 years. She has no passport so cannot get real work. Her family buy gemstones and beads to make jewellery then she leaves home for months on end to try to make a living selling them to tourists. In the evenings she weaves yak wool into belts. Narendra escorted a few of us to the Gurung Museum. Gurung is the caste name for the people of this area. In the forecourt we met some women dressed in traditional clothing for the wife of a Gurung male. 

One of the most interesting displays was a model of a hand pushed Ferris wheel which they use in festivals, like Deepavali in November. Now I understand what the interesting structure in Chhomrong was for. It was Wen Bin's birthday today and Parbat cooked another amazing cake. The Chinese group began celebrating early with lots of alcohol. After dinner they insisted we join in too. I have no idea how many flasks of rum they shouted but the evening was very loud and funny. Unlike last night we have to share this common room with other guests, it turned out to be a group from Italy so we sang Happy Birthday in Italian, English, Chinese and Nepali. I went upstairs to our penthouse suite but Eric was happy to stay on celebrating. He must have quickly changed his mind because it was only a few minutes later that I heard Nava Raj escorting him up the stairs. Nava Raj, who was an assistant guide last year, calls us Mama and Papa this year. He had found Papa at the bottom of the stairs unable to navigate them! I'm not suggesting alcohol had anything to do with it but it was hilarious watching Eric trying to get into his thermals. He must have slept well though as he was snoring before his head hit the pillow. Wen Bin was awarded whacker just because it was his birthday. None of our Nepali support team participated in the alcohol consumption but they found the goings on very amusing. I think they are expecting there will be a late start tomorrow. 

Day 12_Dec 16 Awoke to the sound of donkey trains passing, the tinkling of their leaders' bells is beautiful and unmistakable. Soon after the local monastery began the daily chant, what a lovely way to wake up. Surprisingly, everyone made it to breakfast on time though some looked a bit pasty. Once again, today's trek took us downhill to the Kimrung River, it was a long, long downhill which required vigilant concentration to avoid slip-ups. Not sure how the boys, who must have hangovers after all those flasks of rum, managed it. Then back uphill, as you do in this country, to Landuruk for lunch in the sunshine on a terrace facing one of the best views in the world. 

Then we walked the final leg into Tolka, some of this was along a newly formed road and two 4wds went by as we trudged forward. This is the first road or vehicle we have seen since we began and in some ways it is sad but it is progress for the locals. We spent the afternoon taking a group photo and composing verses of a song for our porters who will be leaving us after just one more night.  The porters entertained us with an impromptu high jump competition. 

Whacker was presented to Michael for revealing more of his body than required while taking photographs. After dinner we danced the polka, as you do in Tolka. Actually it was more of a 'Singing in the Rain' rendition with actions. 

Day 13_Dec 17 Woke at 5:40, still much too early to get up but had to make a trip to the toilet. Found Maggie at the basin, by torchlight, applying her make-up. She is amazing, not once has she been seen without foundation, eyeliner, brows penciled and lipstick applied. Each to their own! After breakfast we trekked up to Deurali and then downhill to have lunch at Dhumpus. I did have a quiet chuckle to myself when I heard Maggie had stepped right into one of the buffalo pats. That will take some shoe brushing in the afternoon when it dries. It has been quite overcast today but we caught a little sunshine, sheltered from the cold wind, on the front lawn of the Yama Sakura Hotel then, as it threatened to rain, we moved into the snug dining room. We are staying at Dhumpus overnight, so really only a half day trek. Just by the Hotel we watched a woman weaving shawls and I bought one for Mum. In the evening we all off-loaded spare gear in Peter's room so the porters and guides could share it out between them.

The whacker was presented to Nava Raj because he has cheered us everyday for the last two weeks with his infectious laugh, and besides, the hat really suits him. 
Parbat, by popular choice, was also presented with a special prize for turning out such wonderful food everyday without fail. Tonight he clinched it with another suburb cake. 

After dinner we sang and danced, finishing with a special rendition of 'Quarter Master's Store', the verses each relating to one of our support team as they were handed their tip. We have each also pledged money to the Gudel School. To our great surprise and pleasure the local team then sang the same song back to us, but they had composed their own verses each matched to all 16 of us. Amazing, English is their 3rd language (at least) and they managed to compose rhyming verses! To top it off they had written another song in Nepalese about us which they are going to have translated in the next few days. 

Day 14 _Dec 18 After the same morning routine as every other day we trekked downhill to Dhampus Phedi. It was all downhill, seriously, no little bit up and no Nepali Flat. And before we knew it, it was all over, just one and a half hours later. 

The bus was waiting for us and our porters had almost finished packing our gear on top. The hour long drive to Pokhara (1990m) was broken by a short stop at the Tibetan Refugee Camp where we were able to watch some women weaving but unfortunately the Display Centre was closed. 

We farewelled our porters who were all off to Kathmandu by bus in the afternoon, then checked into the Hotel Asia. First goal was to jump under a hot shower so we could use a proper sized towel and then change into some reasonably clean clothes. Eric and I ambled up the street aiming for the lake to look for birds but got way-layed at at shirt shop that could embroider me a very special 'Nepali Flat' shirt. While we sat for a coffee next door as it was completed, Peter wandered in and before we knew it, they both ordered one too. 

Coffee extended into lunch and Heather and Michael joined us. We wandered up and down the main drag of Pokhara in the afternoon, the lake and birds will be there tomorrow. Didn't really buy anything else but investigated the possibility of visiting a Vulture Rescue Project. At 5pm we met up with everyone else to hear about the optional program for tomorrow and that's when we confirmed that Eric would do the culture trip while Helen, Narendra and I will see the vultures. We agreed to have dinner at a Korean BBQ restaurant nearby but it turned out to be disastrously spicy with appallingly bad service. Bring back Parbat! 

Day 15_Dec 19 Our day of rest in Pokhara saw most of the group spend the morning walking to the lake, paddling across, trekking up to a stupa and then on to a cave. Don't these people know how to sit and drink coffee by the wood fire? 

Meanwhile three of us had a driver take us by 4wd  to the Vulture Restauant at Ghachowk, about 13 kms from Pokhara. Many of Nepals Vulture restaurants are called Jatayu, after the Vulture god, Jatayu, from the Hindu religion. This is a reserve set up to protect Vultures, who are at the top of the food web. They are threatened with extinction because of the use of a particular veterinary drug which was once widely used. There are now regions in Nepal, India and Pakistan where the use of that drug is banned. For Hindu followers, cows are regarded as sacred animals and in Nepal, killing a cow is punishable by law. However, old, unproductive cows become a burden on poor farmers. The sponsors of this Vulture Project give old cows a sanctuary where they can die of natural causes and then the diclofenac-free carcass is fed to the vultures. The trip out to the Seti River was interesting, Helen loved travelling on 4wd tracks, something she had not done before. We got lost at least twice and had to ask locals for advice, we also had confrontations with other vehicles trying to pass in the opposite direction, just to make it more interesting. 

Eventually we got to where the road was no longer suitable for our Nissan Patrol so we got out and walked the last 100 m. Vultures were roosting on the cliffs on both sides of the river. We found many old skeletons, picked clean and a bunker type bird hide. Not long after a man turned up and we paid him our entrance fee and donation which entitled us to a fresh carcass. Plenty of vultures took to the skies and circled but they were not interested in feeding while we were there unfortunately. Despite this, I got to see plenty of these majestic birds, the amazing aerial acrobatics of at least three different species and learn a little about their habits. After lunch, back in town, Eric and I found the Women's Skills Development Organisation and made a few purchases. Most of us ate at the Italian Restaurant because it seems they make the best coffee. 

Day 16_ Dec 20 after an early breakfast we headed to the airport for the 25 min flight to Kathmandu. Like all other trips Peter has done in the last 13 years the domestic flight was delayed, today by almost 3 hours. The morning dragged but the flight was spectacular once again. 

Once we arrived, our transfer back to Potala Guest House was efficiently organised by our remaining guiding party. It felt like coming home. After a late lunch at the Yak Restaurant Eric and 3 of the other lads filed one by one into the same barber shop as they did last year. I spent the afternoon browsing the shops and then we all went to dinner at the Northfield Cafe which was outdoors but sheltered and heated by wood fires. We all enjoyed a Nepali Set meal followed by a cake to celebrate Bob's Wedding Anniversary. 

Day 17_Dec 21 We slept well at Potala and spent the morning transferring bird sightings across to our hard cover book from the little paperback we had carried with us. We have identified about 30 new species we've not seen before. We then gave the paperback to Narendra and farewelled many of the trekkers in our group who are either departing later today or tomorrow. Bev is also on our 1:20pm flight back to Singapore via KL so the 3 of us caught a taxi out to the airport mid morning, accompanied by Kule. We remembered needing lots of extra time and patience in the queues through Departures last year. Kule and the other guides hope to see us again next year for a trek to Everest Base Camp. Hmmmm....