Left home at 4.30 am to fly via KL to Tokyo. As sleepy as we were, we still noticed the smoke haze in KL. as bad as it was in Sg last year, it was regularly reported as much worse there. We flew on to Narita Airport watching a few movies on the way ("Malala" and "You before Me" more tears) and getting some sleep.
Konichiwa - hello
Wow, the toilets are really something here. So many options. Too many decisions at this time of the day for me though in my travel weary state. I decided to experiment another time. The seat is warmed and you can have music play as you sit. Then there are the spray wash options with a control button to determine the strength. There's also a bidet option. You can have a deodorizing spray to finish but I couldn't find powder puff dry. Not game to try it all just yet in a public arena, confident there will be more opportunities in the next week.
Caught a local train then transferred to the subway. It was all very easy to do but we also met some helpful people who confirmed our choices.
Orrigato - thank you
It was certainly a lot cheaper too than the taxi fare offered to us at arrivals. That amounted to about $300 Sg if we had taken it. While the train did take 2 hours, it only cost $18 Sg and it was comfortable and not too many steps. From the Jimbocho station it was just a few short blocks to the Sotetsu Fresa Inn where we were welcomed by 4 staff all falling over each other to help us register. The place seems to be in a great location though rooms are tiny. Something we will have to get used to in Japan apparently.
We went straight out on the street. We like the area, plenty of options down small laneways and for tonight we are just looking for a quick bowl of noodles. When in Japan, .... but soon found ourselves in a Northern Indian place eating Nepalese momos, Keema curry and fabulous flat bread washed down with freshly brewed local beer.
Kampai -Cheers
(And there we were just last week sneering at people who were raving about eating great Italian in Japan. We've always held that when in Japan you should .....But not tonight! Oops)
The money is tricky, good thing I have Eric with me as I am still to find a simple way to convert Jpn Yen to Sg Dollars. Divide everything by 76? Too hard tonight. When we returned to our cosy room we discovered they had provided house pajamas for us in the softest woven cotton with piping and embroidery. Lovely, but just one thing - the sizing not quite right!
Tuesday 6th Sept
After a great night's sleep we had the complimentary breakfast in the cafe bakery attached to the hotel but also serving customers off the street. What a good idea. Why don't more places do that? It was yogurt with a fruit compote, egg served with lettuce and tomato and a walnut bread roll with coffee. We have complimentary water, tea and coffee in our room which is a bonus I wasn't sure we could expect. Then we walked the short distance to the Imperial Palace, alongside a number of nice little gardens and sculptures along the way.
We entered through the Hirakawa-mon gate, over the wide moat, with its impressive stonework. The East Gardens are all beautifully tended in the Japanese style and even the ancient pine trees seem to have a graceful weeping aspect. The clusters of cherry blossom would look amazing in spring but even so, there was colour in the clematis, liquid amber and hibiscus at this time.
The Nimomaru Grove, more like wild woodlands with a stream running through it, appealed to us too as it was shady and there seemed to be a lot of bird calls but it turned out to be noisy insects. Beside it was a beautiful pond, apparently in the original position as in the Edo castle, on the grounds of which these gardens have been developed. I wasn't trying to imitate the 'Japan parasol effect' in the pic below, it was just hot, very hot.
We exited through a nearby gate to get tickets for the palace, walking along the moat and around the Fujimi- yagura (Mt. Fuji viewing tower). To our disappointment we discovered that to tour the palace itself you have to register and join a party of up to 180 people at 1pm and then follow a guided tour in Japanese only, English not available. We decided to skip that and just enjoy what we could do in the East Gardens.
They cover 21 hectares so that would be plenty of walking for my knees to cope with. We re-entered the gate and found we were quite close to the samurai guardhouses, where up to 100 are still present 24 hrs a day. They must have been training at the time as we heard a number of guttural cries which suggested a head was toppled by sword. There were groves of plums and other classic fruit species once popular in Japan like persimmon and Japanese pear. Also expansive lawns, rose and iris gardens, a tea plantation and bamboo grove. Rest rooms with air con and vending machines were dotted throughout. Many people were making use of them as it was so hot. We climbed up the Tenshudai for a panoramic view, this being the remains of the original tower, but the view was less than spectacular. Nearby was the beautiful Tokagakudo Concert Hall (pic above right), a hexagonal building with mosaics covering the walls depicting birds in flight and a roof line in the shape of a clematis flower.
We walked the short distance home stopping off at the Paper Back Cafe in our street for lunch on the way, then we had a short break in the air con. In the afternoon we found our way to Tokyo Station to activate our rail passes for the next 7 days. We had the opportunity to observe an irate Japanese customer interacting with a very cool customer relations operator while the people behind us in the queue kept us updated on the progress and what the body language was saying. Unfortunately Eric didn't have his passport with him so he had to make another return trip while I literally put my feet up. Fortunately I met a cleaner at the hotel and was able to ask for some sumo sized pajamas.
kudasai - please
In the evening we met up with Yoshi who we haven't seen for 17 yrs. As he approached the building we first noticed a shaved head then under it, the unmistakable smile of that cheeky young man who shared our home and our lives for 4 months or so in 1998. We had a very enjoyable evening chatting about the old days and catching up on all the intervening years. It was so exciting to hear him talking of his future though he is concerned about long term earning capacity too. Weren't we all at 40? Forty! How did he get to be that age? He is really looking forward to revisiting Cobram in December. He took us to a nearby Craft Beer Outlet where we shared a delicious light meal, allowing him to choose a dish of raw red snapper, and we were both impressed with the edamame snack (young green soybeans smoked in their pods).
One thing that hits you by surprise in the restaurants and cafes is the fog of cigarette smoke, a harsh difference from the no-smoking laws in other parts of the developed world. The boys then finished the night with a sake. Before he left us, Yoshi mapped out a day full of visits for us on Thursday with reception at our hotel and mentioned some plans for Friday afternoon based on our requests. Through Facebook we had already asked him about attending an open amateur sumo tournament or visiting a sumo stable to watch the wrestlers practice but without spending big money or queuing all day, that wasn't going to be possible. Also we would have liked to see a Taiko drumming performance but there are none at this time of the year. He promised to bring along his partner to meet us on Friday evening though.
Hai - yes
Wednesday Sept 7
We woke to a cloudy sky and rain but decided to go to Nikko as planned anyway. It just meant we had to call in at the 7/11 store for an umbrella. An hour on the Shinkansen (fast train) got us to Utsunomiya where we changed to a regional line and took the connection to Nikko beyond the edges of suburbia we passed through stands of cyprus pine, bamboo forests, rice fields, market gardens and even a diary farm. We arrived in Nikko at 11:30, the station itself was an impressive old building.
We bought a bus ticket to the World Heritage Sites. Getting off at the highest point we first visited the Futarasan Shrine. It was founded in 782 by Shodo Shonin, the Buddhist monk who introduced Buddhism to Nikko.
Many Japanese people regard the religious practices of Japan as part of the nation’s culture, rather than a matter of faith. Most observe rites of the native Shinto religion and those of Buddhism, and even some of Christianity. Shinto is the native religion of Japan, and was once its state religion. It involves the worship of kami or spirits. Some kami are local – the spirit of a particular place – but others represent major natural phenomena like Amaterasu, the Sun goddess, or Mount Fuji. So Shinto can be seen as a form of animism. Followers are not concerned with the afterlife, the emphasis is on fitting into this world instead of preparing for the next, and on ritual and observance rather than on faith. The religion has no fixed book, no holiest place, no person regarded as the holiest, and no defined set of prayers. Instead, Shinto is a collection of rituals meant to regulate the relations between living people and the spirits. A waterfall or a special rock might come to be regarded as a spirit of that place; so might abstract things like growth and fertility. Sacred objects, such as rocks or trees, can be recognized by the special ropes and white paper zigzag strips attached to them. Some public shrines are elaborate buildings, but many are small structures in typical Japanese architectural style. Shrines are commonly fronted by a distinctive gate (tori). These gates form a symbolic barrier separating the living and the spirit-worlds. There are often two guardian animals at each side of the gate, protecting the entrance. We watched as people paid respect at the different shrines by first washing their hands then standing in front of the cashbox and the long ropes dangling from a gong. They would toss a coin in the box, sound the gong a couple of times, bow deeply twice, clap hands firmly twice, bow once deeply, once lightly and then back away politely to avoid turning their back to the shrine. It is the Shinto ideal of harmony with nature that influences things like flower-arranging (ikebana), traditional architecture, and garden design. I particularly like the way they arrange rows of standing lanterns and in Nikko, they are all capped with a little moss. Many Japanese customs, such as using wooden chopsticks, and removing shoes before entering a building, have their origin in Shinto beliefs and practices. Buddhism came to Japan from China in the 6th century. Over the centuries Shinto and Buddhism became closely knit, and religious practices developed where forms of Shinto and Buddhism were merged together. In 1868, after the Meiji Restoration, Buddhism and Shintoism were separated, but many Japanese still adhered to both. Today, most Japanese people observe both according to the occasion, without any conflict or contradiction between the two.
Next we went to the Iemitsu Taiyuin Temple, the mausoleum of the third Tokugawa shogun, with its mix of Buddhist and Shinto structures. It is a clone of Toshogu, the mausoleum of the first shogun Ieyasu. This is the mausoleum of his grandson.
Time for lunch, so we found a small cafe serving only traditional food and we enjoyed our soba noodles, tofu and soup. I'm glad we didn't have to sit on the floor to eat it though, or they would have had to drag me up again afterwards. That gave us the strength to walk up to the Toshogu Shrine which was quite a challenge.
From there it was a very long but lovely downhill walk, including a detour by the renovations at Rinnoji Temple, to the Shinkyo Sacred Bridge. This whole area is just lovely and much cooler than Tokyo. We even had a brief shower today. The deep greens under the canopy are contrasted by the first signs of autumn and beautiful locals wearing traditional dress.
We found a delightful traditional home that has been tastefully turned into a coffee shop and stopped in there for refreshments. Everyone wore indoor slippers to protect the tatami matting and the little rooms were divided off with sliding screens. They served coffee in the most beautiful individual tableware.
Finally we emerged from the mountain forest at the lovely Shinko Sacred Bridge which we later discovered belongs to the first of the temples we visited this morning.
There is a lot more to see and do in the Nikko area including Botanical Gardens and waterfalls etc but not really possible in a day trip at the rate we like to do things. Besides, at this stage we just felt like a beer. So, after the bridge we walked through the township of Nikko with its many quaint stores and houses with that in mind. Eventually, we arrived at the station just as a train was departing. Well that was bad timing. On the return journey we both agreed it had been a lovely day, the weather did not interfere and we certainly got in our exercise. At the station there were a number of origami decorations on display, we also have them in our lifts of the hotel. It would appear people do it on the job in their spare time.
Returning to Tokyo we had a vague plan of going home for a shower and change, then going to the Tokyo Skytree to view the city panorama under lights, but we were way-laid by hunger and tiredness and after a few false starts we found ourselves in Ichijuku, just down the street. They were serving meals at the counter with the 3 chefs just on the other side. One did all the seafood, another did all the eggs, tofu and salads. The third did all the grills. We have learnt that in Japan you order just one dish at a time, once it is cleared you order the next. It was really interesting to watch the chefs work as we worked on our appreciation of sake under the guidance of other customers. We had no idea there were so many varieties, a whole new world of discovery was unearthed tonight thanks to our friendly chefs and diners sitting beside us. A terrific night to complete a fabulous day.
I will admit that by now I have explored all the functions of the toilets and think they are marvelous. Warning: be careful with the adjustments of the pressure or you could end up with a hands-free enema. Sorry - too much information!
Thursday 8th Sept
We began with Yoshi's suggestion of visiting the Meiji Jingu Shrine in the far south west of our subway map, so we bought a 24hr metro ticket. The sky was looking very dark and gloomy as we exited near Shibuya. The shrine, dedicated to the spirits of Emperor Meiji (the first emperor of modernized Japan) and his consort, Empress Shoken, is set in woodlands adjacent to Yoyogi Park and between them make up a large forested area within the densely built-up city. We really enjoyed the walk though it was dark due to the sky. The shrine is absolutely serene and we walked quite a distance through the park before returning to suburbia. On the right below you see all the barrels of sake and wine donated to the shrine.
There was no sign of the vermillion red here, intricately carved oiled wood and white paint highlight the structures. On the right you see all the votives offered by devotees in prayer and below the significant trees in the grounds are encircled by a sacred rope hung with zigzag cut decorations.
Our next stop was the Ota Memorial Museum of Art which holds a large collection of woodcut printed pieces from the Water Margin publications. Woodblock prints flourished during the Edo Period (1603-1867). They originated as popular culture in Edo (present day Tokyo) and depicted popular geisha, sumo wrestlers and kabuki actors from the world of entertainment, a world detached from ordinary life. It is amazing to appreciate the number of precise steps it takes to produce these multi-coloured finished products using this method. You cannot take pictures in there, these are from a postcard.
Back out on the busy streets seemed such a contrast to the peacefulness of the park and shrine and then the quietness of the art gallery. At time, walking the streets here can feel like you are in any big city in the world. Then you are suddenly struck by something quite Japanese. Take for example these snaps below of the Toyota Crown Sedan taxis, the robot window displays that talk to you when you enter and the traditionally clad couples.
Then there's parking the delivery van, hair in rollers on the subway or walking the 'dog'.
Then we took the train to see the world's busiest intersection at Shibuya. We sat in the L'Occitane Cafe on the first floor where we were lucky to get a table by the window to gaze at this ever-changing mass of humanity as it ebbed and flowed like a tide in rhythm with the lights. One thing we have noticed is how much respect Japanese people have for the traffic lights. You don't see anyone jaywalking or stepping off the curb before the light actually turns green.
After lunch we took a train to the far north east of the subway map and alighted at Oshiage to visit the Tokyo Skytree. There are 4 lifts which take you to the top, each themed according to the seasons. We went up in the summer one with beautiful tempered glass baubles and came down in the winter one.
At 350 m we got a terrific view of the city that is home to 13.5 million people. Fortunately the sky was holding for us, though not clear enough to see Mt Fuji. Aside from the 360 degree panoramic view they also had a massive monitor where you could watch a 24 hr view and a section of glass floor.
Next we went to Asakusa by train to visit the Sensoji Temple and walk along Nakamise St. The clouds opened up just as we arrived so we found a Sushizanmai shop serving sushi and beers until it stopped. We were intrigued by the number of girls and couples who had hired traditional kimono outfits to wear for the day. These cost about 3000 yen to hire and another 1500 for hair and make up. That's about $57. Actually I should be calling them yukata, these are cotton rather than linen, and casual. They became popular among the common people, rather than just the nobles, during the Edo Period (1603 - 1868). This was when public bathing became popular and afterwards they wore the yukata. To complete the look you need a kanzashi (ornate hair ornament), an obi (sash in complementary pattern or colour which can be tied in a number of diffeent ways at the back), the sanbuhimo cord (tightened over the obi), the obidome (clasps the cord), a pair of geta (thonged sandals with matching socks that are split for the thong between the toes) and finally the small purse or basket.
Walking along Nakamise St reminded us of walking to Kek Lok Si Temple on Penang where all the stalls tempt the tourists with everything from food to fluffy animal mobile phone holders. This is where you can still take a rickshaw ride around town, just for tourists though. They are pulled by very fit looking young men, not the usual, ragged bodies of the aged men trying to earn enough to keep their strength up. One shop did surprise me when I spotted an elephant tusk. It was called Hyotania and from what I could gather it sold products made from ivory. They were parts of traditional musical instruments and plectrums. There were also pendants and hairpins and the like. Shame.
Our last stop for the day was Choi Dori St in Akihabara to observe the cult fascination with anime and manga characters. Many of the technology shops in this area have painted their shops with characters in this style and we watched many young people flocking in to put coins in slot machines. Interesting.
This is also the area where you will find maid cafes, themed restaurants in which waitresses dress as maids and address their customers as “master” and “mistress”. We saw a number of women dressed in French maid outfits spruiking on the streets, drawing customers into their shops to be served in this fashion. I spoke with one of the girls promoting her cafe on the street and she offered me a drink so that I could talk in a ridiculously high voice like she did! Thanks, but no thanks.
Inside the slot machine parlours around here, is row upon row of noisy pachinko machines with lots of bright LED lights, bells and cartoon voices where the mostly male players sit, watching silver balls bounce around hoping they will fall down into the winning centre hole. Each machine has an LCD screen that loudly plays segments of the latest Japanese anime or TV show along with the score of any winnings. The more balls they win, the more cash they will get. Girls hang around but they don't seem to play. Casinos are illegal under Japan’s strict gambling laws, but apparently pachinko is a legal loophole related to how you claim your prize. It is also tinged with links to the Japanese mafia which once controlled the cash prizes. They are not restricted to just this area, we saw many of them throughout the city and in Kyoto.
Footsore and weary by then it was time to return home and shower before dinner. We returned to Ichijiku and were warmly welcomed. This time we tried some dishes we had seen others enjoy and once again developed our appreciation for sake. We met and chatted with a woman who had spent some time on a study tour in Brisbane many years ago and was keen to talk to us.
Friday 9th Sept
We woke to a fine day and went straight out to Shinjuku to see the park. All week I have been expecting to see the classic garden design I associate with Japanese style as seen in Cowra, but once again these proved to be more informal and shady. Not unpleasant, just not what we were expecting.
It was a very popular park and as the time drew closer to lunchtime there were many office workers enjoying a bowl of noodles in the shaded fresh air. To our delight a beautiful set of vertical bells chimed to mark midday. More birds here than anywhere else we have been including Large-billed Crows, Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker and Dusky Thrush?
Back at the station we met Yoshi at the designated spot and time and went to a soba noodle bar (made from buckwheat). While we ate a man worked away at transforming a ball of dough into noodles. He must be a very precise and patient man, the end result was so uniform. I had soba sushi and Eric had a soba soup with duck broth.
Yoshi then took us to the harbour at Odaiba. Did you know Tokyo has its own replica of the Statue of Liberty? What’s more, it’s not Japan’s only one. At least two more exist (one in Shimoda, one in Osaka), though I bet neither have views as impressive as Tokyo’s, overlooking Tokyo Bay and Rainbow Bridge.
We caught a ferry which looked more like a spacecraft up the river to Asakusa, next to the Asahi Brewery. It was a delightful way to spend about 45 mins as the sun was shining and the breeze lovely while we were allowed to stay out on deck. Then we went inside for a beer. Yoshi had never done this before so he enjoyed it as much as us.
He was keen to take us to see a display of goldfish in a hall here but unfortunately they were very popular and they were not allowing any more visitors that day. Instead we went for a stroll around the Asakusa neighbourhood, lanterns lit the street where they are renovating sections in the traditional walled style. Yoshi explained that Japan only hunts whales these days for research (really?) and that you can buy canned meat in the supermarkets but it is not popular these days with the younger generations.
In the evening we went for dinner and Katie joined us after work. She is a website designer. It was lovely to meet her, she is absolutely perfect for Yoshi. Sweet and laughs easily, we got on immediately and then she told Yoshi to bring out the gifts she had bought for us. Without having met us she had gone shopping for some Tokyo momentos which we will enjoy using like sumo sticky notes and sushi fridge magnets. They will make us laugh whenever we think of the two of them.
In this restaurant that only opened in August I think we have found the ultimate toilet experience. As you open the door the seat opens and it has a drying gust of warm air.
After a delicious dinner where once again we left the ordering up to Yoshi, he paid for everything. We tried to insist that this was very un-australian, especially as he had already paid for the ferry tickets but he wouldn't hear of it. Eric then wanted to take him to a bar for a whiskey, Japan being well known as a good whiskey making location and sure enough, Yoshi found one. A good one at that with Hibeki, etc. the three of them enjoyed a few while I enjoyed a port. We said a very fond, but wobbly farewell on the train going home. We only had 2 stations to travel, they had about an hour. So good to meet Katie, they must surely have a wonderful future together.
About the only thing we didn't get to see in Tokyo was the young people dressed up in their cosplay outfits on the weekend in the parks. You can't have everything.
Saturday Sept 10
Sayonara - Goodbye Tokyo we caught the fast train to Kyoto. Within half an hour we had left the city behind and were travelling through tunnel after tunnel with just glimpses of hillside towns between. We had purposefully booked seats on the right hand side as research told us that we might get a look at Fuji on the way, but despite it being a fine day we didn't see it. As we travelled I took a few pictures but few of them turned out due to the speed. We enjoyed a Makunouchi Bento Lunch Box. Traditionally, people working outdoors in the fields, on fishing boats or in the mountains carried their lunches with them because they did not have time to go home for meals. These boxed lunches were typically built around such staples as white rice, rice mixed with millet or potatoes depending on the region. During the Edo period, people considered bento an essential accompaniment to outdoor excursions or the theater. The makunouchi bento, which typically contains small rice balls sprinkled with sesame seeds and a rich assortment of side dishes, made its first appearance during this era. In the Meiji period (1868-1912), when Japan's railway system came into being, the "station bento," sold at train stations and due to their popularity are now sold onboard. They are considered a Japanese ritual everyone should try at least once. Quite tasty and plenty of variety.
It was a very smooth ride only stopping a few times before arriving at our destination. One of the strangest things we saw from the bullet train was the Panasonic Solar Ark, an ark-shaped solar photovoltaic power generation facility which offers visitors interactive activities to learn about solar power generation and the benefits to both ecology and science. This amazing facility is located right next to the railway line. It has over 5000 panels that produce power.
If Tokyo is Japan’s modern centre then Kyoto is its ancient heart with an especially rich cultural history. The city has many, many temples, shrines and gardens, and if we're lucky, we might see some geisha. Everyone who we know who has visited Japan has recommended we visit, but we hadn't realised how big this place was. We took a bus from the station and then walked through a number of covered arcades to find the Hotel Gracery. This is much roomier than the one in Tokyo. We are right in the middle of downtown Kyoto, in one of the two covered archades that form the heart of Kyoto’s main shopping district. Ours is called Teramachi, which we found had a variety of art galleries, bookshops, clothing shops and even the Honnoji Temple which backs onto it. Out in the streets we were able to find more homes restored in traditional styles than in Tokyo.
Then we visited the Nishiki Market where Eric bought a bottle of sake. It was very crowded but most people seemed to be taking photographs like us rather than purchasing goods. Many Japanese tourists come to Kyoto on a historical pilgrimage and dress up in traditional costumes for the day. There are lots of shops offering this service, and as a result we found many colourfully-dressed people especially around the temples and the market.
Another way people like to dress up in Japan, but it is also common in China and South Korea apparently, is wearing “couple shirts”. Its a trend and shops are increasingly selling his and hers apparel and accessories. Perhaps because the streets aren't so crowded here we got a chance to see more in Kyoto than in Tokyo.
We went by the little Nishiki Shrine then dropped into the Tiger Gyoza Bar for a well earned refreshment.
Next we wandered down Pontocho St and over the Shijo Bridge across the Kamagawa River. The river's banks were thronging with people seeking a cool spot in the breeze off the water. Restaurants lining the banks have built temporary terraces while the water is low to attract more customers who enjoy eating under the stars.
The Gion area, our target for this evening walk, is the home of the geisha. We have seen many girls dressed in Kimino but no actual geisha. These are women who have trained for years in the traditional Japanese arts to become the perfect entertainers and perform at high-end dinners, private parties and special events to add a special touch to the proceedings. Kyoto is the heart of Japan’s geisha world. Fully trained geisha are properly called geiko (pronounced “gay-ko”). Young ladies, usually between the ages of 15 and 20, train for five years to become a geiko. During this period, they are known as maiko (pronounced “my-ko”). Knowledgeable insiders estimate that there are about 100 geiko and 100 maiko in Kyoto. Maiko wear colorful kimono with long sleeves and appear with their own hair worn up with a variety of extravagant hairpins (known as kanzashi), while geiko wear plainer kimono with shorter sleeves and appear wearing relatively unadorned wigs. Both maiko and geiko entertain guests and they often appear together at various functions. Maiko usually live at their okiya (geisha house) during their training period, under the care of a kami-san (mother of the house). During this time, they are not supposed to enter into romantic relationships or marry. After becoming geiko, they are free to live on their own and some open bars or their own okiya. Some also leave the profession, marry or both.
We were unable to spot any this evening, but even if we did we probably wouldn't be able to photograph them as if they do appear they are on their way to an appointment and it would be considered very rude to hold them up. On the way back towards our hotel we had dinner at Elk, a little place serving savoury pancakes which were incredibly fluffy and quite tasty. My legs were aching, perhaps from dragging bags to and fro this morning so home for a much earlier night than the last.
Sunday Sept 11
We got breakfast next door at a coffee shop, which was pretty dreadful to be truthful, then caught the train to the Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine, this is the famous one that has many, many vermilion red tori covering the hiking trail and leading up to the summit of Mt Inari. There are so many that at some point they divide into two dense, parallel rows of gates called Senbon Torii (thousands of torii).
The torii along the entire trail are donated by individuals and companies, and you will find the donor's name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate. We had not expected the crowds of visitors. The steps became too much of a challenge for my knee as they lead deep into the wooded forest of the sacred Mount Inari, which stands at 233 meters and belongs to the shrine grounds, but Eric made it the extra distance to the summit. Foxes are thought to be Inari's messengers, resulting in many fox statues across the shrine grounds. On the way down we found a lovely refreshment spot overlooking the lake where we were served by an Aussie!
Next we took the return train and walked up the long road to Kiyomizu-dora Temple. The street is lined with many shops and restaurants that have obviously been catering to tourists and pilgrims for centuries, and products on sale range from local specialties such as pottery, sweets and pickles to the standard set of souvenirs. Apparently this temple is a very popular spot from which to watch the sunset but much of it is under scaffold at the moment. Kiyomizudera (literally Pure Water Temple) is one of the most celebrated in Japan. It was founded in 780 on the site of the Otowa Waterfall in the wooded hills to the east of here, and derives its name from the fall's pure waters.
Behind Kiyomizudera's main hall stands Jishu Shrine, dedicated to the deity of love and matchmaking. In front of the shrine are two stones, placed 18 meters apart. Successfully finding your way from one to the other with your eyes closed is said to bring luck in finding love. Within the grounds, demonstrating the easy relationship between Shinto and Buddhist beliefs stand a number of halls dedicated to Buddha.
We found an interesting little Takoyaki place after that for lunch. They are balls of wheat based dough stuffed with octopus and cooked on a specially molded griddle pan. I found them delicious with the standard sauce but there are many sauces to choose from.
Next we took a bus to bus to the Kinkakuji Temple. This is commonly known as the Golden Pavillion. Unlike the other visits today, this is a Zen Buddhist Temple and another widely-recognized image of Kyoto. Seen reflected in the adjoining "mirror pond" with its small islands of rock and pine, the temple is breathtaking.
But imagine this in Autumn when all the birch maples are turning! The area was originally the site of a villa owned by a statesman. The Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu (1358-1409) acquired it and then built his own residence. In keeping with his will, the gold leaf adorned building was converted into a temple and in 1994 it was registered as a World Heritage Site and continues to function as a storehouse of sacred relics. Gold leaf on lacquer covers the top 2 levels and a pheonix stands on top of the shingled roof. The temple's garden is also a scenic delight with lots of little springs trickling and a charming teahouse. We found a wishing pot nestled amid some stones where I tested my aiming skills in search of wishes for world peace. Nothing like trying for the best.
We caught the bus and then a train connection to the Nijo Castle our last stop for the day and I was already starting to have doubts this was a good idea as I was pretty sore and slow. It was built in the 1600's as the Kyoto residence of the first shogun of the Edo Period and would have been our first visit to an Asian Castle, but unfortunately it was closed for the day, already being after 4:30. The palace buildings are apparently the best surviving examples of castle architecture of Japan's feudal era, and it was designated a UNESCO world heritage site in 1994. Can't say I was that sorry to miss it though, we have walked miles and not all flat either today so time for a shower and relax before dinner. In fact it was hard to rouse us for dinner so we took up the suggestion of a local place that was highly recommended only a 2 min walk away. But then we couldn't find it so instead we went into an open doorway and found ourselves ordering from a ticket machine right at the door. We had no idea what we were doing but our meals turned out to be quite tasty.
Soupy noodles and beer followed by a sake. Will sake taste this good when we are not in Japan? I don't think it did last time we tried it. What was most bizarre about the evening was the music playing in the background; l kid you not it was a Japanese version of "My Grandfather's Clock".
Monday Sept 12
We waked to the subway that connects us straight to Kyoto Station. It was good to time this (less than half an hour) as we need to know for tomorrow's early departure to Osaka. That done we took the JR train to Nara, in south-central Honshu, then a local bus. The city has significant temples and artwork dating to the 8th century, when it was Japan’s capital. Hundreds of deer roam freely in Nara Park, and beyond. In Shinto they are considered to be messengers of the gods, and so have become a symbol of the city and even designated a natural treasure. They are surprisingly tame, although you are warned that they can be aggressive. We first walked up a long path to Kasuga Taisha Shrine, a world heritage site, which dates to 768 A.D. and has more than 3,000 lanterns.
Then we visited the Manyo Botanical Garden in the grounds. It has on display more than 270 kinds of plants which were described in the poems of Manyo-shu, Japan's oldest anthology of poems compiled in the 8th century from poems written as early as the 5th century. At the time we entered we knew nothing of this, we were just interested in seeing the layout and if any birds might be present. I recognised wisteria, camellia, lilies and the cereal crops of wheat, rice, millet and bean. All very interesting but very few birds.
From there we walked through the gardens of the Kasugano International Forum Building and on through Nara Park.
Finally we came to the Todaiji Temple, another world heritage site. Deer have been present everywhere we have walked today except in the Botanical Garden. Returning to the bus we walked by the Todaiji Daibutsuden, where the Tōdai-ji's 15m-high bronze Buddha is displayed in a large wooden hall but we didn't need to see that as well.
We returned to the station by bus and had some lunch before returning to Kyoto. Fortunately we have made it in plenty of time to visit the castle today and the hour on the train has given my knee a good rest.
Nijo-Jo castle is considered one of the finest examples of the early Edo Period and Momoyama culture in Japan, as it makes splendid use of the building design of the day, with lavish paintings and carvings. In 1867 when the last shogun returned sovereignty to the Emperor, the castle was given to the Imperial family and in 1939 it was given to Kyoto City. It was declared world heritage in 1994. You are not allowed to take pictures of the screens and paintings inside.
After passing through the defensive gates inside the moat you walk on to the lavish Kara-mon (gate) to the palace. It has a massive floor area consisting of many linked areas separated by screens making up to 33 rooms all covered in tatami mats. It's garden is set around a pond with a number of rock islets, each representative of spirits like the crane, the turtle and eternal happiness.
The original castle tower was struck by lightning and burnt down in 1750. The present structure, though closed to the public, was transferred here from the former Imperial Palace of Katsura in Kyoto's Imperial Garden. Before leaving the grounds we walked through the Seiryu-en Garden which has an expansive lawn and a Japanese garden with another large pond.
Just before we left the grounds we noticed a small but important new planting. It was a seedling of an Aogiri tree (from the umbrella plant family) successfully grown from the parent plant that survived the Hiroshima atomic bomb blasts of 1945. Nothing in the zone survived the initial blast of heat and radiation but these plants rejuvenated and have since created new growth in seedlings. They are now known as the Pheonix Tree and are planted at dedicated peace ceremonies throughout the country. They are meant to represent the importance of peace in Japan's future. It’s a sobering reminder of how much has happened since WWII. There is so much horror in our world yet, despite the destruction we create, nature still finds a way to shine through if we give her time and space.
Returning home we had a well deserved rest then went for dinner nearby in a yakitori (something like a satay) restaurant. I haven't mentioned the vending machines that you find on nearly every street and train platform. You can buy any and every type of thing from these, including alcohol. But it isn't just limited to drinks, you can also buy votives and amulets at temples, noodles in a cup, folding umbrellas, fishing bait, deer feed (Nikko), toy cars and tanks and more.
Tuesday 13th Sept
We woke earlier than the alarms or wake-up call after a restless sleep to rain. Hmm, how clever we thought we had been timing that walk yesterday only to find we had to take connecting subways anyhow. Not to worry, the trains were already running and we shared carriages with sleepy commuters already dressed for work but not looking like they would be very productive until that next cup of coffee. After all, it was only just after 6am. We arrived in time to catch an earlier express to Kansai Airport in Osaka than the one we had reserved seats on, but the conductor allowed us on anyway. It was a very grey morning the locals were waking up to. What really surprised us was to discover that the airport is on an island in the Osaka Harbour so our train took us right out over the ocean. We spent the last of our Jpn Yen on some treats for the staff at our next afternoon tea at work tomorrow then settled in for the trip home. You really know you have left Japan when you have to squeeze yourself into those airplane toilets. The seat is not warmed, there is no privacy sound to play, no wash or dry or sanitizing spray, not even a hands free flush. Just not the same!
Sayonara
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