Tioman Island lies within the Marine Park of the state of Pahang, Peninsular Malaysia and was made famous in 1958 as the fabled “Bali Hai” in the musical South Pacific. Sitting in the departure lounge at Changi Airport awaiting our delayed flight we could hear conversations being conducted in many different languages, suggesting it is still a popular destination for sunseekers from all over the world to snorkel, swim and dive in its warm waters or just lie under the shade of a palm tree. Because it is a marine park activities like jet-skiing, banana-boating and paragliding are not allowed so it is no place for thrill seekers.
Leaving Changi in pouring rain
Arriving at K.Genting
We arrived at Tekek 2 hours later than expected and then arranged a water taxi (in the NT we would call this a tinnie with a canopy) to our resort at Kampong Genting. The 30 min trip was quite a rough one and there was also a light shower of rain so we arrived with our clothes and luggage a little damp but not our spirits. I used the word 'resort' very generously. Walking down the jetty towards the village we were happy to see there were quite a few options where visitors could stay, a few different places to eat (don't want to eat resort food all weekend) and a supermarket. The Impiana Inn is a five minute walk along the beach, but in keeping with the rest of the kampong, showing signs of age. The cabin is clean and dry though we had to walk a diversion path to get to it as the regular path is flooded.
This is the first sign that we have come at the wrong time, the monsoon season extends through to March. After unpacking we walked back in to town to find something to eat for an early dinner as the Impiana only serves breakfast in the off-season (another sign). We had missed any opportunity for lunch while we sat in the departure lounge. To our great disappointment all we could find that night was fried rice or noodles at cafes, all the other options were for guests only. We were looking for a good, nourishing curry, not snack food. We had to buy an umbrella before we went home to open our bottle of wine on the balcony and plan our itinerary for the next day. That's when we discovered it had a cork and we have no opener! What else can go wrong? The signs are not good and it is still raining.
The next morning we considered snorkelling but the boats are not going out and the waters around the point or off the beach are very murky and choppy. So we looked into walking options only to discover that there is only one from this kampong. We had read about walking across the island through the rainforest but now discover you can only do that from Tekek. Our only option is to follow the coastline back towards Tekek. This looks a better option anyway as the height of the peaks of the hinterland look somewhat daunting to someone who hasn't walked since mid December. While its marine life is diverse, bird watching is not an activity that Tioman is widely known for, but the lush rainforest does host a number of local birds while others visit seasonally. Frigatebirds roost on an island just offshore at dusk but since they feed on the wing they are rare sighting otherwise. According to local folklore Tioman was named after the hill mynah or 'tiong' which we have only ever seen in captivity. We found the path (that follows the power lines rather than the coast) was mostly concreted so easy to negotiate except for a few slippery spots where it was very mossy. And then there was the section where the large tree had fallen across the power lines so you had to either squeeze under or climb over. Didn't like that much.
We got as far as Kampong Paya where we had coffee and later lunch before returning along the same route. We found a few new bird sightings which was pleasing; grey wagtail, collared kingfisher and common kingfisher. We also saw monitors, macaque monkeys, black giant squirrel and a myriad of butterflies. There had only been one light shower in that time so perhaps tomorrow will be better.
We both read and slept in the afternoon, perhaps we are starting to relax into kampong lifestyle. Go slowly, we are on kampong time after all. Interestingly, the manager at the Impiana asked us if we had found our cabin noisy during the night, did we want to move? We'd said no, slept ok. In town we managed to locate a good chicken curry and roti and someone with a decent corkscrew. Things were looking up.
It started about 2:30 am. That's when the motorbike roared up the footpath outside our cabin for the first time. I don't know whether it was the noise so much as sensing Eric's blood pressure going through the roof but we were both wide awake when it went by for the 14th time. I had decided it must be someone supplying drugs! Eric got up and went onto the balcony, I still don't know what he thought he was going to do, but fortunately the rider gave up (Eric claims he chickened out) and so Eric returned to bed without any confrontation. In the morning we asked the manager what it was all about and it turns out the neighbour runs a food stall down at the jetty and when they close up each night they have to ferry everything home. By motorbike it apparently takes about 7 return trips. There are no roads on Tioman bar the few within the township of Tekek. Everyone gets about on foot, push bike or small motorbikes within the kampongs using the shared footpaths. You take water taxis to travel between them and a ferry to Mersing on the mainland.
On Tuesday morning we moved to another cabin, away from the footpath and had a few leisurely hours catching up on the sleep we'd missed overnight. The sun was shining for the first time so we collected snorkels and flippers and headed to the point at the end of the beach, its too late now to join the boats. Time passes so quickly when you are enjoying the treasures of the silent underwater world. I always feel so relaxed exploring all the corals and tropical fish in this octopus's garden. Not surprisingly we were both sun burnt when we emerged.
We ate at the jetty again,turned out to be the noisy neighbour's stall! We were entertained watching the locals playing sepak takraw on the community courts. One court was for the adults and the other for the children. We reflected on the fact that the whole time we watched there was never any dispute on the kids' court about a line call, the score, whose serve it was next, who should fetch the ball..... The only time we have ever seen this same respect for the game rather than the score was working on the Indigenous communities in the NT.
After dinner we stumbled upon a quiet beach bar where we soon became the only patrons. We sat at the bar and had a very interesting discussion with the barman about growing up a 'lady-boy' in Malaysia. Quite enlightening!
After a quieter night, only punctuated occasionally by the slightly quieter throttle of the motorbike, we packed up and headed to the jetty with our bags. Turns out the water taxi operator was the same man who cooked our dinner last night so this family have a number of businesses on the go. In fact the whole family are taking the taxi to Tekek so we sat on the jetty with the offending honda motorbike and its teenage rider! Whenever do they sleep?
We were delivered to the airport in plenty of time, but once again the weather has closed in and the plane was delayed leaving Mersing. Eventually we took off and arrived at Changi in time to grab a cab and go directly to work, glad we had taken work clothes with us just for this outcome.
It was great to be away for a few days, my knee stood up pretty well to the first test but if we go back to Tioman in will be after the monsoon season. We have still only ever seen the hill mynah in captivity, but we've heard it in the wild.
Our flooded path to the cabin, these kids didn't mind the rain
This is the first sign that we have come at the wrong time, the monsoon season extends through to March. After unpacking we walked back in to town to find something to eat for an early dinner as the Impiana only serves breakfast in the off-season (another sign). We had missed any opportunity for lunch while we sat in the departure lounge. To our great disappointment all we could find that night was fried rice or noodles at cafes, all the other options were for guests only. We were looking for a good, nourishing curry, not snack food. We had to buy an umbrella before we went home to open our bottle of wine on the balcony and plan our itinerary for the next day. That's when we discovered it had a cork and we have no opener! What else can go wrong? The signs are not good and it is still raining.
Copied image from The Age this week. Just seemed so apt.
The next morning we considered snorkelling but the boats are not going out and the waters around the point or off the beach are very murky and choppy. So we looked into walking options only to discover that there is only one from this kampong. We had read about walking across the island through the rainforest but now discover you can only do that from Tekek. Our only option is to follow the coastline back towards Tekek. This looks a better option anyway as the height of the peaks of the hinterland look somewhat daunting to someone who hasn't walked since mid December. While its marine life is diverse, bird watching is not an activity that Tioman is widely known for, but the lush rainforest does host a number of local birds while others visit seasonally. Frigatebirds roost on an island just offshore at dusk but since they feed on the wing they are rare sighting otherwise. According to local folklore Tioman was named after the hill mynah or 'tiong' which we have only ever seen in captivity. We found the path (that follows the power lines rather than the coast) was mostly concreted so easy to negotiate except for a few slippery spots where it was very mossy. And then there was the section where the large tree had fallen across the power lines so you had to either squeeze under or climb over. Didn't like that much.
Bridges were very ornate
We got as far as Kampong Paya where we had coffee and later lunch before returning along the same route. We found a few new bird sightings which was pleasing; grey wagtail, collared kingfisher and common kingfisher. We also saw monitors, macaque monkeys, black giant squirrel and a myriad of butterflies. There had only been one light shower in that time so perhaps tomorrow will be better.
Collared Kingfishers
Storm clouds in the afternoon
We both read and slept in the afternoon, perhaps we are starting to relax into kampong lifestyle. Go slowly, we are on kampong time after all. Interestingly, the manager at the Impiana asked us if we had found our cabin noisy during the night, did we want to move? We'd said no, slept ok. In town we managed to locate a good chicken curry and roti and someone with a decent corkscrew. Things were looking up.
It started about 2:30 am. That's when the motorbike roared up the footpath outside our cabin for the first time. I don't know whether it was the noise so much as sensing Eric's blood pressure going through the roof but we were both wide awake when it went by for the 14th time. I had decided it must be someone supplying drugs! Eric got up and went onto the balcony, I still don't know what he thought he was going to do, but fortunately the rider gave up (Eric claims he chickened out) and so Eric returned to bed without any confrontation. In the morning we asked the manager what it was all about and it turns out the neighbour runs a food stall down at the jetty and when they close up each night they have to ferry everything home. By motorbike it apparently takes about 7 return trips. There are no roads on Tioman bar the few within the township of Tekek. Everyone gets about on foot, push bike or small motorbikes within the kampongs using the shared footpaths. You take water taxis to travel between them and a ferry to Mersing on the mainland.
On Tuesday morning we moved to another cabin, away from the footpath and had a few leisurely hours catching up on the sleep we'd missed overnight. The sun was shining for the first time so we collected snorkels and flippers and headed to the point at the end of the beach, its too late now to join the boats. Time passes so quickly when you are enjoying the treasures of the silent underwater world. I always feel so relaxed exploring all the corals and tropical fish in this octopus's garden. Not surprisingly we were both sun burnt when we emerged.
The K. Genting beach
Libby landed a 'logodile'
We ate at the jetty again,turned out to be the noisy neighbour's stall! We were entertained watching the locals playing sepak takraw on the community courts. One court was for the adults and the other for the children. We reflected on the fact that the whole time we watched there was never any dispute on the kids' court about a line call, the score, whose serve it was next, who should fetch the ball..... The only time we have ever seen this same respect for the game rather than the score was working on the Indigenous communities in the NT.
The very athletic game of takraw
After dinner we stumbled upon a quiet beach bar where we soon became the only patrons. We sat at the bar and had a very interesting discussion with the barman about growing up a 'lady-boy' in Malaysia. Quite enlightening!
After a quieter night, only punctuated occasionally by the slightly quieter throttle of the motorbike, we packed up and headed to the jetty with our bags. Turns out the water taxi operator was the same man who cooked our dinner last night so this family have a number of businesses on the go. In fact the whole family are taking the taxi to Tekek so we sat on the jetty with the offending honda motorbike and its teenage rider! Whenever do they sleep?
We were delivered to the airport in plenty of time, but once again the weather has closed in and the plane was delayed leaving Mersing. Eventually we took off and arrived at Changi in time to grab a cab and go directly to work, glad we had taken work clothes with us just for this outcome.
It was great to be away for a few days, my knee stood up pretty well to the first test but if we go back to Tioman in will be after the monsoon season. We have still only ever seen the hill mynah in captivity, but we've heard it in the wild.
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