The early bus from Faro leaves at 8:20 but that wasn't a problem for us, we were in plenty of time to have breakfast at a cafe across the street from the terminus. The 4 hour journey initially followed the marshy coast of the Algarve dotted with townships of blazing white walls and terracotta tiles. Should we worry when our driver is in control of this huge vehicle, all the passengers and a mobile phone in each hand? Perhaps it would have been better to sit further back and be oblivious. Storks were taking every opportunity provided by man-made structures to build nests, as we had seen at this time in Turkey last year.
After we crossed the river and moved inland through Spain our highway was bordered by mile after mile of colourful blooming Oleander and many of the fields were ablaze with sunflowers and golden hay being cut and dried.
While we had onboard wifi we learnt that Julia Gillard has lost a leadership ballot and Kevin will be sworn in again. Guess they had to do something to stop the mutiny.
We arrived in Seville about midday, like most big cities the bus terminus is not necessarily in the prettiest end of town; picture Spencer Street Stn in Melbourne in the 80's. We took a taxi to our apartment in Santa Cruz, the old Jewish Quarter. As we drove by an interesting garden we were pleasantly surprised when the taxi turned in. In the 1200's this area was full of noble houses and palaces because Seville was the most important Jewish community in Spain, after Toledo. When the Jews were expelled in the 1400's Santa Cruz was left in ruins until the 1800's when it was decided to re-urbanize it. The cobbled streets here are narrow and connect into plazas, once again a labyrinth of lanes rather than laid out in a grid. Our taxi had to drop us short and indicate for us to walk the final leg to Murillo Apartments. Thank goodness we are still only carrying hand luggage and a couple of bottles of Porto Port, though at least it is flat, no steps here as in Lisbon. We are very pleased to be staying in this most interesting area and look forward to exploring. As we cannot check-in yet we dropped said bags and headed out into the old town for a bite of lunch and a wine or two in the shade.
With map in hand we found our way to Plaza Virgen de Ios Reyes surrounded by the magnificent Gothic Seville Cathedral, Girelda (bell tower), Archbishop's Palace and Encarnation Convent. It was stunning. The cathedral is surely the biggest I have ever been in (apparently the 3rd largest in the Christian world) and the views from the tower well worth the climb of just under 100m.
Reading local information afterwards on the terrace, we realised the tomb Eric saw was that of Christopher Columbus. He was actually an Italian wool weaver who ran off to sea and was shipwrecked off Portugal. He married a Portuguese captain's daughter then convinced the Spanish monarchs to finance his bold scheme to trade with the East by sailing West. He never did get it quite right, having found the Bahamas and trading with them, all the time thinking it was Asia, but he did open up Europe to the new world.
Thursday 27th June
We began today with a self guided walk through the Aldcazar, the royal palace whose upper quarters are still used today by the current royals when they are in town. It was initially built by the Moors for their governors in the 10th century, then extensively renovated in the 14th by moorish tradesmen but for the Christian king, Pedro I. He transformed the rather austere site by hiring tradesmen from Granada, trying to recreate the romance of that city's Alhambra for his new mistress.
The halls and courtyards are beautifully decorated in distinctive Islamic style but with a mix of Christian elements while the gardens are lush and shady. It was amazing to stand in the Admiral's Room and realise that this is where Columbus recounted his travels to Queen Isabel, Magellan planned his around the world cruise and the map makers came up with names for the new discoveries.
The gardens are full of cool fountains and hot tourists. There are intimate geometric zones, grottos, pavilions and lawned expanses with shady trees. We walked along the elevated walkway and found the underground cistern where rainwater was collected and where Pedo's mistress could bathe. A dip would be nice in this reflective pool but it is time for lunch and Eric has a hankering for Paella. He noticed a restaurant offering paella on the way to the palace, with tables skirting the shaded sides of a small plaza and he made up his mind to return. Fortunately by lunchtime they had also turned on the mist.
We are just so impressed with the interesting architecture and beauty of this old quarter of the city, everywhere we look we are astonished and feel the need to take another picture.
Heading for home we walked via the Plaza de Toros and discovered that we had the opportunity to watch a bull fight tonight! How fortunate, but not for me. It is the one thing about the Spanish culture I cannot condone, this cruel spectacle.
Friday 28th June
We are up early again to take the train to El Pedroso in the Sierra Norte Nature Park. Our plan is to either walk a 10 km trail or cycle the 20 km rail trail, whichever looks best when we get there. Arriving at the station we discover we have missed the only morning train at 9:30 by about 5 mins, the next one doesn't leave until after 2pm. Instead we had a coffee (as you do in Spain) and considered our options for the day, we'll do the Sierra Norte tomorrow instead. Not to waste the walk here to the station we purchased our AVE (fast train) tickets to Madrid for Sunday and then found the metro. This took us back into Santa Cruz, close to where we had found bikes for hire. Seville is very bike-friendly with designated bike lanes and a public bike sharing-program. We couldn't understand the instructions so instead hired them for a half day from a shop. Our journey on wheels took us across the river to Parquet de Los Principes. (Princes Park) then back to the river which we followed for quite a few kms.
There were a number of rowers in training on the water and some lovely bridges.
Staying on bike paths all the way we circled the whole heritage city centre in about 2 and a half hours. By that time my seat was very uncomfortable so we returned the bikes and had lunch. Now I know what I want to do in Sierra Norte tomorrow and it is not bike riding.
After the essential siesta back in the air-con for a few hours we ventured out for a stroll to people-watch, as everyone else does, it is a Spanish custom. The lively paseo takes place before dinner each evening, when everyone is out strolling, being 'part of the scene' so to speak. I tried shoe shopping but it was Eric who came home with new shoes. We finished up at El Rincon Bar, next door to our apartments, for dinner. We had to dine here at least once as it shares the same name as the restaurant we ate at many times in Barbastro, when we were staying in Juseu in 2011.
Saturday 29th June
The Sierra Norte Nature Park lies within the Sierra Morena Mountain Range where the countryside is predominantly woodland or large pastures of oak and cork oak trees, the source of all those wine bottle stoppers.
These trees shelter species threatened by extinction such as the rare Iberian lynx, black stork and the imperial eagle but we were happy to find black vulture, azure winged magpie and wild boar. There are a number of towns within the park, some with Roman and Arab remains and a number of rivers which are tributaries of the Gualdalquivir River that we rode beside yesterday.
Our train dropped us at El Pedroso and we headed straight for the tourist information for a more detailed map. We found it closed, for some years by the look of it. So we checked the train timetable in the station, the only train returning to Seville today passes through at 6:55, oh my we are in for a long day! Obviously the articles I have read about this park rely on visitors having a car. Still, we are here now (for the next 8 hours) so time to walk. With help from a local restaurant owner with very little English we found the sign to signal the start of the walk. Of course it was all in Spanish but we could recognise the name; Arroyo de las Canas. That was the last sign we found for 10 kms other than little posts with white arrows.
This is a tree stripped of its cork. It looks like ringbarking but doesn't damage the tree which can live to 120+ years and can be harvested between 9 and 12 times.
The walk took us along country roads, through the oak forests and occasional herds of cattle, sheep and goats. We found one herd of sheep being minded by a St Bernard dog as the only shepherd.
These pigs knew how to keep cool.
It was a very pleasant and interesting walk and by the time we got back to El Pedroso we were weary and hungry.Thank goodness not everything was shut up for siesta. We ate a huge lunch at the same restaurant where we had got help earlier. It was like returning to family. They put the tv on for us so we could watch the Dutch motoGP and we didn't have the heart to tell them we would rather watch Wimbledon. Guess with Nadal out already there is no interest here.
It was so hot and the white-walled buildings created an uncomfortable glare. We were the only things moving, everyone else had the good sense to be indoors. I felt like ants crawling across a white car bonnet, no idea where to get relief from the sun.
I was prone on the benches for the next 3 hours, most uncomfortable.
Back at the apartment we both enjoyed a cleansing shower and then Eric cooked dinner. Our last night in Seville
Sunday 30th June
We had to check out by 10am so we walked to the station and still had plenty of time to kill. The train was full so a good thing we had booked a few days ago. Our trip was uneventful, the countryside, dotted with small, white-washed villages, ranged from verdant green in full production and under irrigation to scorched golden by sunshine. Today no exception.
Arriving in Madrid we were assaulted by the heat of the afternoon sun and pleased to only have a short walk to our Chic and Basic hotel on Calle de Atocha, just down the same street where we stayed in 2011. The aim of this new chain is to offer you hotels and apartments with charm, the best location and always at very attractive prices. What more can you ask for? They are now in Madrid, Barcelona and Amsterdam. I think they will grow. We found them very clean and comfortable for a short stay. Dropping our bags we collapsed for a an hour before wandering out into the Botanic Gardens for a saunter through the shade and some birding. We saw magpies, monk parakeet and common wood pigeons among others. Then we walked slowly up the hill to Plaza Mayor with the fabulous frescoes.
We saw all these wonderful facades in 2011 but I'm sure it wasn't this hot then!
There were so many people out for a stroll on a Sunday evening.
Walking back down Calle de Atocha we found a lovely restaurant and had our best meal in Spain so far; a fabulous grilled vegetable salad and baked hake which we shared.
Our waiter is very excited about the football match between Spain and Brazil to determine the winners of the Confederation Cup tonight and as we left he insisted we share a glass of liqueur, origin unknown. Powerful stuff. The game doesn't start until after 11pm and we can't stay awake that long.
1st July
Well, it was the quietest night sleep we have had in some time. It is obvious that Brazil won the game - there was no street cheering or horn blowing during the night. One more time of packing bags, checking we've left nothing behind, got everything charged up for the journey. It has been fabulous but we are ready to go home and soak it all up, browse the photos and drink the port. While we have been away Singapore has been shrouded in smoke from out of control bushfires in Sumatra. A good time to be out of the country it seems.
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