I can't believe we completely missed the Festival of the Nine Emperor Gods last year. It is so unusual, one of the most colourful and exotic folk festivals in Singapore, and yet it is hardly publicised in the papers. Although 50% of Singaporeans are followers of Taoism and Buddhism, this festival is mostly celebrated by devotees of a select sect at just a few suburban temples, one of which is in our area, a small crumbling temple built more than a century ago. By Sunday the Emperor Gods had been entertained for the final time around the temple, with proper tribute made by the worshippers, before being returned to the river. We drove past about 9pm just as hundreds of worshippers were emerging onto the street. There were brightly coloured banners, red lanterns, joss sticks, and giant candles everywhere. Dragon and lion dancers performed their glorious tributes to the Gods, to the deafening beats of drums, crashing of gongs and smashing of cymbals. Finally the temple was emptied and everybody began a procession along Upper Serangoon Rd northwards to Sengkang on the northern coast. The procession included the paper boat I had seen earlier in the week, plastered from bow to stern with the scribbled wishes of devotees. Apparently once towed 200 metres off shore, a follower sets the paper boat alight in the sea, while the thousands of devotees cheer.Then, turned to ashes, it sinks. The Gods are home.
With Peter away in Taiwan for a break, we coordinated this week's walk across the Southern Ridges which begins at Kent Ridge. Joan and Jim walked this same trail with us when they were here. For the first time we found a coffee shop near to the meeting point. To our delight we found an Asian Paradise Flycatcher, the first time we have seen the white variety here as they are very rare in Sg. We also found the white crested laughing thrush, a very gregarious bird who is not concerned about people in close
proximity. As you can see from the map we were elevated much of the time so most of the way you have great views across to the water and beyond.
proximity. As you can see from the map we were elevated much of the time so most of the way you have great views across to the water and beyond.
On top of Mt Faber
After a massage in the afternoon we met up with Bev at about 6pm and followed a walking trail around Chinatown that focussed on religious sites of the first settlers. Tucked in amongst the ultra modern buildings, the shophouses and dockside godowns (warehouses), the guided walk explains how important these houses of faith were to the early migrants.
I was particularly keen to visit the Thian Hock Keng Temple, one of Singapore's oldest Hokkien temples, finished in 1842 and completed without the use of nails. It is dedicated to the Goddess of seafarers and features in one of our P1 classes but I hadn't ever seen it. Unfortunately it was closed, no not for renovation, but just because we were too late in the day.
Another quite different one we discovered was the Fuk Tak Chi Temple dedicated to the God of Earth. It was quite a contrast, being built by Hakka and Cantonese migrants but at the same time and is now a museum.
The Chulias, who were Tamil Muslims from Southern India, also built a number of mosques in the area at the time. We found the Nagore Durga Shrine on Telok Ayer Street which was a sandy beach crowded with sailing craft when this shrine was first built. Hard to imagine now.
We found all sorts of other curiosities as we followed the trail, as you would imagine in a Chinatown. Plenty of Traditional Chinese Medicine halls selling all manner of herbs and animal parts. One shop that intrigued us was called The last Time One, which is a second hand dealer. Anyone interested in a pair of old lion dancers masks?
There were also many street sculptures depicting scenes of olden days, this one represents the street parades which have always been popular.
We made our way up the Ann Siang Hill Park walkway then down Club Street which is named after all the Chinese Clan Associations that had their headquarters here. These days it is home to restaurants and bars so still seems very appropriately named. We made our way to The Scarlet on Erskine Rd, a boutique hotel we had discovered when walking with Judy in April, preparing for the Great Race. It has a rooftop terrace bar and I thought it would be a nice place for a rest but unfortunately it was closed for renovations! We returned to Club St and chose the Screening Room which also has a terrace bar. Very nice, very expensive drinks!
I was particularly keen to visit the Thian Hock Keng Temple, one of Singapore's oldest Hokkien temples, finished in 1842 and completed without the use of nails. It is dedicated to the Goddess of seafarers and features in one of our P1 classes but I hadn't ever seen it. Unfortunately it was closed, no not for renovation, but just because we were too late in the day.
Another quite different one we discovered was the Fuk Tak Chi Temple dedicated to the God of Earth. It was quite a contrast, being built by Hakka and Cantonese migrants but at the same time and is now a museum.
The Chulias, who were Tamil Muslims from Southern India, also built a number of mosques in the area at the time. We found the Nagore Durga Shrine on Telok Ayer Street which was a sandy beach crowded with sailing craft when this shrine was first built. Hard to imagine now.
We found all sorts of other curiosities as we followed the trail, as you would imagine in a Chinatown. Plenty of Traditional Chinese Medicine halls selling all manner of herbs and animal parts. One shop that intrigued us was called The last Time One, which is a second hand dealer. Anyone interested in a pair of old lion dancers masks?
We made our way up the Ann Siang Hill Park walkway then down Club Street which is named after all the Chinese Clan Associations that had their headquarters here. These days it is home to restaurants and bars so still seems very appropriately named. We made our way to The Scarlet on Erskine Rd, a boutique hotel we had discovered when walking with Judy in April, preparing for the Great Race. It has a rooftop terrace bar and I thought it would be a nice place for a rest but unfortunately it was closed for renovations! We returned to Club St and chose the Screening Room which also has a terrace bar. Very nice, very expensive drinks!
Good thing we did so much walking on Monday because we were woken by a huge storm on Tuesday so chose a sleep-in and then just didn't get going all day. Bev came over in the afternoon with her new laptop and we sorted out a few programs and helped her negotiate Windows 8. Hmm, that was a challenge! But good for me too, to keep up to speed - how quickly things change in the land of technology. In the evening we took Heather and Michael to Chomp Chomp that we had all walked by last Friday. Even though we had arranged to meet early, knowing how popular this hawker centre is, we still had to line up for a table. Then when we were finishing, people were lurking about, ready to pounce as we made a move.
Today was a public holiday for Hari Raya Haji, where practising Muslims celebrate this auspicious day to mark the end of Hajj, the annual holy pilgrimage to Mecca. After performing the ceremonial prayers and other customary practices at the mosque, families united for lunch and then joined the merrymakers at local bazaars set up in Geylang and Kampong Glam amid dazzling local decorations. We saw some families, in their beautifully colour coordinated outfits, walking together in the streets while we went out for dinner.
As always, one festival is always quickly followed by another in Singapore. The lights have already been strung up in Serangoon Rd around Little India in preparation for Deepavali.
It was testing week at Morris Allen so we must be due for Parent Teacher Interviews soon. The new timetables have gone out to families so they can select the teacher and timeslot for classes next year. It has set some staff on edge, rumours abound over what changes will take place for what staff. Good time not to know too much. Meanwhile I have sent off to NT DET to enquire about how to resign since we have ongoing contracts and my 2 years leave without pay will expire in Jan.
Today was a public holiday for Hari Raya Haji, where practising Muslims celebrate this auspicious day to mark the end of Hajj, the annual holy pilgrimage to Mecca. After performing the ceremonial prayers and other customary practices at the mosque, families united for lunch and then joined the merrymakers at local bazaars set up in Geylang and Kampong Glam amid dazzling local decorations. We saw some families, in their beautifully colour coordinated outfits, walking together in the streets while we went out for dinner.
As always, one festival is always quickly followed by another in Singapore. The lights have already been strung up in Serangoon Rd around Little India in preparation for Deepavali.
It was testing week at Morris Allen so we must be due for Parent Teacher Interviews soon. The new timetables have gone out to families so they can select the teacher and timeslot for classes next year. It has set some staff on edge, rumours abound over what changes will take place for what staff. Good time not to know too much. Meanwhile I have sent off to NT DET to enquire about how to resign since we have ongoing contracts and my 2 years leave without pay will expire in Jan.
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