Wednesday 12 November 2014

Penang revisited

I hate to admit it but I have been experiencing some pain in my left knee lately so am tapering off on the walking. Hitting the pool instead which I'm so lucky to have right at the doorstep and usually exclusively at that. Eric and Peter went back to the pagoda again on Thursday, now a regular routine but Eric reports it is not getting any easier. 

So the good news, better than expected, was that June was able to be released on Friday. When we went to visit her on Thursday she had just heard the news. Very happy as once they moved her from ICU she found she couldn't sleep and the staff were too busy to engage in conversation so the hours ticked by very slowly. She now plans to spend some time in Australia with family while the rest of us trek in Nepal and the Dr has given her the all clear to do that.
On Thursday evening after work we had dinner with Heather at Kovan as she is on her way to Sydney for a wedding and will be gone for a few days. On Friday night Peter joined us and then came to our place to share in the opening of another bottle of whiskey he and Eric bought. We had both the guitar and ukulele going so no doubt the neighbours were impressed by our talent. 
After work on Sunday we met Leonie and Peter at the airport and flew to Penang for our 'weekend'. There aren't many left now before the end of the year and they are returning to Aust in December. We thought we were off to a good start when the plane landed 20 mins early only to have the taxi driver blow it trying to locate the correct hotel. This time we stayed at The Royal Bintang Hotel very close to the familiar Butterworth ferry terminal. The Royal Bintang operates out of a heritage property that was once a warehouse belonging to a business trading in spices, coconut, tin, tobacco, tea and silk conveniently located close to Sweetman Pier in the Weld Quay area. 

In the morning we shared breakfast and then Eric and I went walking. First we explored the the Clan Jetties. Forming part of the Heritage Trail, they are billed as one of the last bastions of old Chinese settlements on the island; a waterfront society where homes over a century old are built on stilts. Each jetty is named after a Chinese clan.


 On the way we went by Church St Pier
 and the Ferry terminal

Initially, the area was a char hionh (wood yard) littered with planks and firewood. After the construction of the Quay in 1882, the waterfront was developed with short public landing stages or jetties. Settlements grew on these foundations and they were used for the loading and unloading of goods and for the mooring of sampans (boats). In the early 20th century, the jetty settlements expanded but as squatters, residents did not have basic amenities like water and electricity. It was only in 1957 that the Clan Jetties began to join the modern era; before that they carried their water in kerosene tins from the main road. To this day none of the families pay any tax as they are not living on land.


To tell you the truth, they were a bit disappointing in that it felt like walking up to Kek Lok Si Temple in the 80s, but without the steps. We wandered by shop after shop all selling pretty much the same thing. The uniqueness of the jetties has been spoilt by commercial interests. 



Low tide was perhaps not the most picturesque time to visit and take photographs.













We wandered further along Pangalan Weld to Fort Cornwalis and the Clock Tower before returning to meet up with Leonie and Peter and head out for a spot of shopping. Other than the jetties we had also come across some more wonderful street art. 



























 In Armenian St, we walked into this little cafe and stopped for a cool drink. Not one of our orders appeared at the table as we had requested, but it didn't matter, the 71 year old chap who owns the place regaled us with tales of his life as a merchant seaman and kept us fully entertained. 

We returned to the hotel about 5 hours later, a bit leg weary and with multiple bags under our wings. Eric already has his Xmas present, a new lens for his camera. A dip in the pool was refreshing and I followed that up with a Thai massage. As I had turned up at the spa with just my bathers and a sarong it meant that after the massage I had the choice of putting on my wet bathers or just my sarong to return upstairs to the room. I chose the latter thinking I could manage that without bumping into anyone. Unfortunately I discovered that I couldn't move the lift without a door key-card. Stranded in the lobby on the second floor, I had no choice but to seek out the help of some cleaners in one of the rooms who of course turned out to be non-English speaking males. With some careful hand gestures, which I managed without dropping my sarong, I managed to convey to them that I needed to get one of them to get the lift going. I don't think they suspected that my sarong was all that was hanging between them and my dignity but I kept getting flashbacks to those comedy movies where characters get caught starkers in the hotel hallways. 
We met for dinner at one of the bars where an unfortunate waiter managed to spill beer all over Eric rather than have him drink it. Fortunately for him, all ended up with a few laughs and Eric smelling like a brewery.


 Since it was raining outside we ate in the hotel restaurant where we were entertained by Raj, our waiter who gave us lots of insights into growing up in a large Indian family in Penang.
Another walk the next morning began at the Jubilee Clock Tower, built to commemorate Queen Victoria's 1897 Diamond Jubilee. Right beside it is the Fort which we clambered around and then searched for a path along the waterfront away from the traffic. It soon ran out so we diverted towards the ruins we had seen the day before near Komtar, passing more street art and restorations along the way.

 Recently renovated
 to be renovated



We took a coffee break in the Loke Thye Kee Kopitiam, an interesting building we had photographed from the pedestrian overpass last time we were here. We didn't realise until we entered that this is the oldest restaurant building in Penang and it has been beautifully restored. 


We must return here for a meal next time. Then we made our way home along Armenian St locating a lovely gallery and some more of the street art.









The four of us cruised around Gurney Plaza for a few hours and then found our way back to Sam's Batik in Penang Rd. Across the road at the Kashmir, Anita introduced herself to us and told us to mention her name at Sam's for a discount. 


Some time later, and with more parcels under our arms, we made it back to Anita's for refreshment. She then proceeded to organise us a driver back to the hotel and on to the airport. He turned out to be a real character too. Once a tailor for the air force, he now has his own tour service and just makes an odd tuxedo on the side. Talk about 'talk', he had a joke for every topic you could think of.


We were pleased to find that our Air Asia flight was still scheduled to fly at the appointed time, not cancelled like the last time we were there. The next morning it was difficult to drag myself out of bed for the 8:50 am appointment at the skin clinic in Novena (just the usual 12 month check up). 

Penang is certainly special; you can return time and time again and discover more jewels in the people and streetscape. We'll definitely be back.

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