Rhodes

Monday 20th
Yasou - Hello
The island of Rhodes is at the crossroads between Europe, the Middle East, and Africa which has given the city and the island many different identities, cultures, architectures, and languages over its long history. Rhodes is the largest of the remote Dodeconese Islands in the southeastern Aegean. Another in the group is Kos which has featured often in the news lately as a step in the escape route for Syrian refugees moving from Turkey through to Europe. Another in the group is Kalymnos which is the original home of most of the Greek community in Darwin. In fact we are much closer to the Turkish border than we are to the Greek mainland. Rhodes was home to the Colossus, one of the 7 wonders of the Ancient World. It was a massive 33m tall bronze statue of Helios, the God of the sun, said to have been big enough for high masted ships to sail between its legs as they entered the harbour. Built in 292 BC, it fell in an earthquake about 70 yrs later. It lay in ruins for about 1000 yrs until the invading Arabs sold it off to a Syrian Jew who transported it away on the backs of camels. The fortified old town of Rhodes still has the remains of Byzantine archways but has also been occupied by the Ottomans, Italians and medieval Knights over the centuries. The islands were formally returned to Greece in 1947 after WWII. Like all the other islands we have seen in the Aegean, Rhodes is very rocky terrain but has lots of beaches and wooded valleys. The airport is quite close to the old town of Rhodes on the northern tip but our villa is at Pefkos, near Lindos, midway down the east coast, where most of the sandy beaches are. 

As Eric drove the VW Caddy, packed to the limit with 5 passengers and all the luggage and supplies we'd picked up in the township of Rhodes, we passed by villages hugging the coast with houses looking like sugar cubes fitted snugly together as they spill down to the turquoise waters. Its rather ironic is it not, that they asked Eric to drive; the one who has not owned a car and rarely driven for nearly 5 years. We were all looking forward to a swim. We found our Exclusive Blue Dream Villa with little trouble and everyone agreed it looks like we will be quite comfortable here for the next week overlooking the Mediterranean. So nice to unpack and stay put for a week. After sorting out the groceries into fridge and cupboards it was straight into the pool for a dip and a welcome drink. Then Eric got to work in the kitchen, happily wearing the Chef's hat the travel buddies had bought for him. Unfortunately I started feeling very off-colour, like I was carsick but I wasn't, so just crashed into bed. Apparently dinner was lovely considering he was unfamiliar with the oven and cooktop. The full moon looked spectacular as it crested the rise to the east. 

Tuesday 21st June
Ephkaristo - Thank You

A sleep-in for some, we caught up on washing, reading and connecting up with friends and family on the other side of the world. We also had lots of reconnecting to do here with old friends and a few new ones. Sandy we first met when we were still in Katherine, her friend Trish was a mum on School of the Air when Sandy was the teacher for Baines cluster well before our days there. We first met Trish through Sandy and her station connections. Helen Taylor we've known of through NTSchool Sport as she has managed it for many years and Annie is a new friend of ours now, who was living in Broken Hill when Sandy taught there many years ago. She is now living in Port Macquarie. It was a busy day, not to mention planning the days ahead on Rhodes. We did not venture much further than the pool - well why would you? The temperature only dips to 24 at night and reaches about 36 during the day. The sky is dazzlingly blue and the sun blazes off the concrete surfaces. It is either the pool or inside with the air-con on and shutters closed. 

And then in the evening we went to Georges Restaurant in town. We took the car with Annie behind the wheel but really we could have walked. Our waiter was Lucas and he was very good, so was the food. Sandy was beaten by the meat platter, both Eric and I had lamb seasoned with herbs.

Wednesday 22nd
Parakalo - Please/You are welcome

Without rushing unduly in the morning, 

we took a drive down the east coast. Eric

was at the wheel again with plenty of advisors in the back seat. We fuelled up at Lardos then continued on to Prasonisi, only taking one wrong turn along the way but that brought us to the quaint little township of Apolakia on the west coast where we stopped for coffee and a relaxed chat with some locals and others on their way south. Last Saturday morning a large wild-fire began near here and the village had to be evacuated as firefighters battled to tame the blaze in the scorching heat and strong winds. You could still smell smoldering stumps of the cyprus. 

At the bottom of the island the Mediterranean to our right, meets the Aegean on the left, separated only by a sand spit across which the winds whip as it reaches to the most southern tip. 

We were stunned to see how many people were gathered here as the roads had been relatively quiet. On both sides of this sandbar there were people enjoying either wind surfing of kite surfing in the stiff breeze, their colourful gear creating a very festive feel to the place. Prasonisi hosts championships in these sports at different times of the year. We enjoyed lunch in the Lighthouse Restaurant there, overlooking all the activity. Then we headed home, adding a site seeing circuit through Kattavia. 

We also paid a visit to Mohitos Beach Bar as their sign on the roadside was so quirky. What we found was a really interesting bar that stretched down to the water's edge with a very bohemian feel created by colourful paintwork, use of driftwood and palm fronds for shade structures and funky music.  We dipped our toes in the water at the pebbled shore but decided to head home to our pool after a quick supermarket shop at Lardos. We'll eat that watermelon we bought at the roadside store over the next few days and fit in a beach swim tomorrow.

After that swim back at home we were all searching for a cool spot in the shade of umbrellas or in the air conditioning. Eric cooked up a bbq at home for dinner which was delicious but we were soon attacked by a swarm of wasps after the meat so we had to escape indoors. 

Then we awaited the arrival of the last of the Australian contingent. We filled in some of the time with a game of 5 sec rule. Much to Sandy's chagrin and with a lot of laughter, the game was won by Annie. Tina and jenny arrived around about midnight; Tina and I both worked for Sandy at one point, although at the time she was in Alice Springs. She is with her friend Jenny who still works there although Tina has now been in Darwin for some time. 

Thursday 23rd

Signomi - sorry

After breakfast Eric and I took a walk into town. We bumped into Annie, Helen and Trish who had left earlier and were already at Harmony Bar enjoying a coffee and bruschetta while waiting for the shops to open. We were soon talked into joining them as it was already so hot. We moved off down the main street and separated when they went shopping and we headed to the pebble-strewn, umbrella aligned Lee Beach. I had a quick swim but was rather alarmed to see an orange single engine plane approaching as if it was about to land in the water, but without skids. No need to worry, there was a tiny landing strip just beyond the beach. 

Then it was time to walk back uphill and home to Blue Dream Villas and a more relaxing swim in our pool. We had discussed getting to Lindos in the afternoon but it was just too hot so we swam and went online, updating blogs or investigating ferry trips to Turkey. That ferry trips just turned out to be too difficult so we gave it a miss this time. In the evening we went across the road to Corelli's Restaurant for dinner, a family run business that make everyone very welcome.The food was excellent and the portions ample. I ate too much but just couldn't stop as it was delicious and immediately took myself off to bed afterwards. Not only did they give us a discount as we were staying in the Blue Dream Villas, but they also gave us some very valuable advice when they recommended we visit Lindos in the morning to avoid the heat and crowds. 

Friday 24th

Ton logariasmo parakalo - The bill please?

Today is the last day of the school term in the NT so we left Sandy at home, to finish off work online, while we took a drive to Lindos. The town itself, full of cubic homes lining a labyrinth of walkways, is nestled on a bay. Above it, at the peak of the cliff, is the medieval Acropolis with some ancient buildings and monuments inside of the Byzantine period and the period of the Knights. Wending our way through the town in the early morning all the shops were closed and we had the place almost to ourselves except for the donkey owners who were bringing their trusty steeds into the stall where they await customers to take them to the top and back for 5 Euro. I had been stealing myself for the climb, hoping my knee would cope. And it did, though I had to be very careful on the uneven rocky sections where the stones were slippery from the thousands of people who have traipsed up and down the climb. 

Through an ancient old gate you enter the magnificent acropolis where you can see more recent buildings like the Castle of the Knights of St John and the Greek Orthodox Church of St John. On the second level are the remains of the 300 BC Temple of Athena Lindia, which was built on the site of an earlier temple. 

From up there we enjoyed sweeping views out to sea and bird's eye views of the township sprawling down the hillside below. Crowds were beginning to arrive so we made our way back down into town where I immediately got lost in the maze of alleyways, all bustling with shop keepers and tourists. I wondered if this was a deliberate ploy by the original inhabitants so even marauding pirates would be bamboozled. The whitewashed streets we had wandered through earlier had been transformed into a blaze of colour, especially Grecian blue.

Some of us did some window shopping while Eric went back to collect Sandy and then we all had lunch together at a taverna. We then drove down to the sandy beach we had seen from above to swim. The water was shallow for a long way out so we just wallowed in it, but it was much too hot to stay long. The reflection off the surface burnt our faces despite hats and the sand burnt our feet. We had cool drinks and a snack in the cafe who had provided us with free parking then came home for a more refreshing swim in our pool. 

In the evening we caught taxis back to Lindos and, after a spot more window shopping, ate on the rooftop terrace at Byzantino. It was a lovely setting with the acropolis as a backdrop. At night they use footlights so you can sit back and enjoy the view.

Saturday 25th June

Yammas - Cheers 

We drove back to Apalonika for lunch at the Amalia Tavern again, the same place we had coffee when we were lost on Saturday. Then we drove inland to the wine growing region. While the vines are still planted in rows like in Australia, here they are not trained onto trellises but just grow freely on the hillsides. They are developing fruit at the moment, harvest here is in August. 

Eric navigated the car along the winding roads through the very quaint township of Siana and then stopped at Epona where we found an outlet for local wines. He also had local olive oil, honey and skin care products. 

After a little wine tasting and some purchases we drove the short distance on to Emery Wines, the oldest vineyard on Rhodes for further tasting and purchasing. We welcomed the coolness of the underground cellar, especially as I was feeling a little motion sick and I don't think I was the only one either. On the homeward leg we stopped off for the last of the groceries then made a beeline for our pool. A very hot afternoon again. 

No one felt like going out for dinner or cooking so. We decided on takeaways from Corelli's, across the road. Annie and I went down early and placed the order, we were all pretty familiar now with what you find on a traditional Greek menu. Eric and Jenny joined us later to help carry it all home. We had enough money in the collected kitty to purchase a slab of cheesecake to surprise Sandy with a birthday treat to share and a new bat tennis game to play. Meanwhile, Helen had gone to a lot of trouble to set the table beautifully with cloth and flower arrangements. We all enjoyed a lovely dinner then a game or two of Mahjong.

Sunday 26th June

Kali nita - goodnight

We awoke to another beautiful clear sky, as they always seem to be but for the first time Eric discovered a cloud in the sky just before midday. A light breeze was blowing onshore so it wasn't as hot as it had been but still good to have water options at hand. Some enjoyed a trip down to Lee Beach while others made the most of our pool. We ate last night's left overs for lunch then one car load went to Rhodes Old Town. We had been advised to miss the midday heat  and visit very early or in the late afternoon.

Eric parked near an entrance to the famous Medieval City of Rhodes, recognised by UNESCO as a monument of world cultural heritage. We made a plan to meet at a designated time then walked along what was once the moat, surrounded by gigantic walls then through a tunnel and onto the paved alleyways of the central court. 

Like the fortifications at Lindos, this city has been ruled by many different cultures, each building on the ruins of the one before or transforming what remained. The last was WWII when British bombs fell on German occupied Rhodes. 

With no particular plan we meandered under gateways and arched colonnades, by an impressive mosque, through squares with fountains and concealed courtyards, through the street of the Knights of St. John to the impressive Palace of the Grand Master. There were too many steps there for my knee, so instead we browsed around the small shops selling everything from handmade jewellery, leather and ceramics to wooden toys, and casual clothing. 

We found an exit near Mandraki Harbour with some very impressive buildings built by the Italians and three windmills by the marina. Then we found the taverna where we had planned to meet up and had a drink. 

We were keen to see the site of the Colossus but the waitress explained that the true location is in dispute as the harbour entrance, where it stood, has changed over the centuries. Annie suggested that we drive a short distance south to Kallithea for dinner. It was apparent that this is one of the places the locals tie up their tiny fishing boats or come for a swim. It has some little coves with umbrellas and sun beds for hire. We ate fresh seafood at the restaurant where the owner seemed to know all of the other customers and we were quite the oddity. The we headed for home, following the coast road until rejoining the main road to Pefkos. Along that coast we found ourselves on the Vegas Strip, surrounded by casinos, American burger outlets, strip clubs and even a carnival. So removed from the medieval town we had walked earlier. 

Monday 27th June
Antio - goodbye
Our last day in Rhodes. A number of us drove in to Lardos for a Fish Spa in the morning, dropping Tina and Jenny at the travel agent for their boat trip to Rhodes and onward journey at Ialysos where Jenny has a relative staying. The girl operating the spa business only had the 4 of us as customers and was very interesting to talk to. The fish are imported from Thailand where they live in the hot springs. She mentioned how the weather has been out of kilter; no rain last winter and the temperatures never plummeting to the usual lows. Then we collected Eric and drove down to Lee Beach Bar and Bistro for lunch where we shared a bunch of delicious tapas.

On returning home the two of us had a swim then began to pack. We have thoroughly enjoyed our time here and are so thankful to Sandy for postponing her birthday celebrations so that we could be included. She is certainly a special person to us. We've also enjoyed the company of everyone else who was able to join her this week. My knee could have been in better shape mind you. Sandy and Trish then drove us to Rhodes where we sat and enjoyed a drink at a cafe while they had a quick look around the old town.

We were driven to the airport where we bid them an emotional farewell and made our way to the departure gate.It was just a 40 min flight to Athens and we were in plenty of time to check in for the next leg. The staff at Qatar were very concerned about my limp and asked if they could help. I jokingly asked for a wheelchair and they agreed immediately. Why didn't I think quicker and ask for an upgrade? As it was I declined their offer but they did put us in seats with extra leg room and when we landed in Doha I was escorted off the plane to the left, not following the other passengers to the right. I found myself on a hydraulic lift that meant I avoided the steps down to the tarmac. I was then seated in a wheelchair and taken by private bus to the terminal where I joined Eric. We were then transferred to a buggy and whisked through to the next departure lounge. Fortunately our last leg to Singapore was not full so we were able to sit with 3 seats between us and even both managed to lie down across three seats for a sleep for some of it.
So we have arrived home in pretty good shape all things considered: unexpected owners of a car and I have a job in Darwin on our return home. I might have omitted to tell you about that in all the excitement. Sandy has offered me the position of manager at the Alawa School Farm. I will be helping the students raise poddy calves, collect eggs, feed the goats and maintain the Stephanie Alexander Kitchen Garden. It is a casual job, 3 days a week for 5 hrs each. Perfect, I can't wait! When she first mentioned it I thought she was kidding, but it is for real. You can read more about it here. She has a job for Eric too as the coordinator of the kitchen project but he is not interested in being tied down as much as that would require. Maybe there can be some negotiation over the next few months.
Right now though we are looking forward to the arrival of James, Nichola and their children. James is my nephew, eldest son of my brother Colin and they live in Redhill, a suburb of Brisbane so we haven't seen a lot of them in recent years. It will be a bit of a tight squeeze here but I am sure we can all manage for a few days. I have been asking my students what we should do together and they have given us lots of ideas.