Friday 21 October 2016

Escape from all the demolition noise

Eric woke with a good dose of the flu on Wednesday so had the next 2 days off work. He was lousy with it but by Friday felt like doing something so the floors got mopped while I was wheeling and dealing. I have now listed items on Carousell as well as Gumtree and that keeps me busy responding to text msgs even if they don't always follow up and make an offer. Today we got rid of a computer table and made a deal to have the bench top oven collected after work on the weekend. Still I discover more to dispose of, the 2 shoe racks will have to be carried over to the HDB, someone there will make use of them. They were designed to be book cases after all.

On the way to work on Wednesday I spied a bargain in a shop that I figured I could wear to the Red Carpet Annual Dinner. It is not really that sort of outfit but will be OK with some adjustments and then I can also wear it back in Darwin. Problem is of course, I sent the sewing machine home earlier. I cut and fiddled at home on Thursday morning then took it to the drycleaning/mending service in Serangoon. This is where the fun started. The locals can follow a pattern perfectly, but give them a task to solve and a vision and they just say, "No cannot, can't be done." I stood my ground and eventually wore them down but it nearly killed me to hand over the money they charged to have a few simple seams whipped together. Not such a bargain after all. We will see what it turns out like. How I wish I was in Hoi An now! (Update - following Thursday was able to collect finished item and it was all good).

Peter returned from his quick trip to visit family over the term break on Thursday and we caught up after work at our place since Eric was home. He brought back some Aussie lamingtons and was keen to hand them over while they were still fresh. We asked him to do this so we could share with our friends under the HDB. They were delighted! On Friday Peter had a very special role to play, Grandpa for Kalena, while Naomi gave birth to Albie. 

Speaking of our local friends across the road, when I was short-cutting across the grass near a new footpath I very nearly tripped on a piece of reinforcing steel sticking out of the ground and then realized there were a number of them. I was lucky not to have fallen on any of them and that got me thinking about who I should report the danger to. I saw Bernard at the florist and he straight away went back with me to take photos and then sent them to the local council. Community service done for the day, the next day they were removed. 

Our opportunities for weekends away are quickly depleting and we were also keen to escape the noise of destruction in our street as they continue to remove trees to upgrade the drainage and footpaths. So after work Sunday we took a 90 min flight to Koh Samui, an island in the Gulf of Thailand, well south of Bangkok and about 80 km from the eastern coastline of Southern Thailand. We were really looking forward to returning there after 30 years to see if our memories of the place are anything like the reality of 2016.  Until the late 20th century, Samui was an isolated, self-sufficient community, having little connection with the mainland of Thailand. The island was even without roads until the early 1970s, and the 15 km journey from one side of the island to the other involved a whole-day trek through the mountainous central jungles.

In the early 1970s the first backpackers arrived but for years after that the island had just a few bungalows and a trickle of tourists. That's what we remember. Things started to change in the early 1990s when tourists started arriving on full ferry services and an airport was opened. since then the place has grown substantially. Samui is now the second-most popular place as an island destination in Thailand, after Phuket.  The most popular and commercialised beaches are Chaweng and Lamai, while the northern beaches and their adjacent villages of Mae Nam, Bophut, Bang Rak (Big Buddha) and Choeng Mon are more peaceful choices. Is it an age thing affecting our choices?


We arrived on Wan Awk Pansa which signals the end of Buddhist rains retreat where the monks have stayed within the temples for 3 months.

Our destination was Samui Boat Lagoon just a 10 min drive from the airport which is made up of very private villas, each with their own pool and poolside kitchenette. Think we will be very comfortable here. It is located on Bo Phut Beach, best known as home of the Big Buddha.

Monday 17th Oct
Sawadee (greetings)
It is Buddah Day or Thod Kathin, which is held on the first day after the full moon of the eleventh Thai lunar month. This is celebrated by colorful processions and temple activities. Monks are presented with new robes after the rains retreat and rewarded with donations of food by the locals who will all be sure to pay a visit. Kathin is a lunar month-long event that takes place throughout Thailand, traditionally people return to their families and go to the temple events as well as local gatherings. No alcohol will be sold as take away and many businesses will be closed for up to 10 days. This comes on top of the mourning period for King Bhumibol Adulyadej, who died Thursday at 88 after an unprecedented 70-year reignMany people are wearing either black or white, black being the official primary color of Thailand's year-long mourning period for King. Tourists have been asked to be respectful and wear only muted colours. Stores sell mainly black clothing; even mall mannequins are draped in black. Colorful items are gone altogether or relegated to clearance racks.

At reception I was given a small bouquet of white flowers that smelt beautiful. It turns out they were from the tree locally known as Peep. It is also known as the Indian Cork Tree or Tree Jasmine. At 11 we took a shuttle bus to Choeng Mon Beach and spent 5 hrs there soaking in the atmosphere. Lovely white sand and clear water that quickly dips to head height. No problem with wearing bright colours on the sand. We walked the length of the beach to the point which separates at high tide then sat back and watched as others more youthful ran repeat laps of it. 

Ironically we had chosen lounges outside The White House, the same name of the accommodation we stayed at in 1987 but on a different beach. They served great food and cocktails. We people-watched until we drifted off to sleep under the shade of the coastal trees only to being woken by Eric's snoring!

Back home we relaxed (Just how relaxed can you get?) in our villa before striking out for dinner. We weren't sure what we would find open but we had a range of local options and it was deliciously fresh just a short walk up the road. 

Tuesday

Had a swim in the massive public pool and all on my own as I have now become accustomed. Then we arranged for a driver, Nom, to drive us around for a few hours. He works at our resort but was happy to forego his one day a week off to be our driver. First he took us to Tongsai Bay Hotel as I had read that their cottages and villas were set in natural surroundings that had been preserved and as a result they have a good number of native birds to be found. Nom could not understand at first why we would want to go there, no birds in cages. We were welcome to visit but had to be accompanied by a staff member in a golf cart rather than just being free to wander, so didn't see as much as we otherwise might. Still, we did get to see magpie robins, brown-throated sunbirds and scarlet-backed flowerpeckers at very close range. Eric did a great job photographing the last.

Next Nom drove along Chewang Beach where we had stayed all those years ago, but it was unrecognisable, buried under so much development. So many electrical wires supported by the street poles! I asked how Nom thought they ever worked out which line had the fault when there was a problem and he just laughed and suggested they don't bother trying to figure it out, they just string up another one. I think he is right. 

Along the way we passed a vehicle heavily decorated in colourful flowers and bunting. Apparently this is a priest on his way to see the people and give blessings. We stopped-off at a lookout point for a view along the great length of Chawang Beach with its glistening white sand and clear water. 


Next we called in to see the notorious Grandfather and Grandmother rocks for the obligatory photos. Now they haven't changed. 

Here we sampled a fresh coconut ice cream which was served with peanuts and glaced pineapple. Fabulous. In the stalls we found unusual sequinned bags that change colour as you touch them and I should have bought one as I bet I will not see them again. (And I didn't.) 
We left the coast to drive inland to Na Muang Waterfall. The wet season is in November so at the moment there is not a huge flow over the lip, but it was still a pleasant spot in the cool rainforest. Our driver had a nice relaxing rest in the shade while we had a lovely lunch of bbq chicken and pork with fried rice.


Then we continued on to Nathon, one of the locations where the ferry from Surat Thani docks. Possibly where we arrived and departed last visit as there was no airport on the island then. We stopped for a look at the shops here as they cater more for locals than tourists. 

Then we completed our lap of the island, arriving home for a swim in our pool. The big advantage we find in hiring a driver rather than self drive is that they can fill you in with local knowledge that you otherwise would be ignorant about. You may pay a bit more but it creates opportunities too for young enterprising people who are prepared to have a go at tackling the language barriers. 
It rained in the evening so we had to wait that out before finding dinner down the road and meeting up with a lovely Scottish couple whose company we really enjoyed at a little place called Stop at Sopa. 

Wednesday
I had another swim in the pool while Eric walked up to the 7eleven then we enjoyed an omelette breakfast. There is one tree in the gardens of Sanui Boat Lagoon that almost always has a bird perched in it. We have found the scarlet Flowerpecker, Olive-backed and brown-throated sunbirds and a Coppersmith Barbet there at different times. It turns out it is the Indian Cork Tree, the birds must love the perfume too! The flowers appear to be just finishing.

We had received emails to say our return flights were cancelled so Eric spent a rather fraught half hour on the phone sorting that out. Then at 11am we caught the shuttle back to Cheong Mon for a few hours on the beach under the shade of the trees at the White House again and this time I enjoyed a very thorough neck and shoulder massage. An hour for Sg$13, how could you miss that?

If we were to return we would consider staying here. Our sort of price range and right on the beach. We did check the price of a cottage at Tongsai Bay but it is out of our league. In the evening we walked back to Stop at Sopa for dinner again. They do pizza and other western meals but we haven't eaten our fill of Thai food yet.

Thursday
My goodness, we work this afternoon and here we are on Samui still. Better get a wriggle on.

Bird sightings
Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker
Yellow-vented Bulbul
Brown-throated Sunbird
Magpie robin
Common myna
Cattle egret
Spotted dove
Peaceful dove
Brahminy kite
Blue-tailed Bee eater
Common Tailorbird
Coppersmith Barbet
Pacific Swallow




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